Approach
Follow the Grays Peak Trail about 1.3 miles, until you approach the large sign. About 100 yards short of the sign, look sharp for an old road bed that shoots off to the left, perpendicular to the trail. The road immediately crosses a creek and leads south and west toward Mount Edwards' and Grays' north slopes. Follow the road if you can, or cross the basin directly. Position yourself under the large, 1000 foot couloir that leads directly to the 13,540-foot saddle between two false summits on Mount Edwards' west ridge. Pull out your ice ax and helmet now.
Route Description
The north facing couloir holds good snow most of the way up, at least thru June. However, the top 300 feet of the couloir was almost snow-free in late June 2004. Stay out of the center of the couloir because you will likely encounter some spontaneous rock fall. Gerry Roach relates a humorous story in his Colorado Thirteeners, of a mountain goat knocking rocks down on him from the top of this couloir. Hence the name, Goatfinger.
Follow the couloir to the saddle at 13,540'. From there contour around to the east. Any elevation you gain here, you will have to give back. After you reach the next saddle, follow the ridge to the summit. A climbers trail makes it easy going.
Essential Gear
Ice ax and helmet are essential life saving devices here. Crampons are recommended as the route steepens to 55º near the top of the couloir.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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Front Range (CO)
