From Blain Basin, the Snake Couloir bisects the righthand side of the awesome North face. In early season, one may expect a snow climb, with conditions turning to ice as the season progresses. The timing of this metamorphosis changes from year to year.

The climb: Follow a zigzaging trail (obvious from Blain Basin) to a bench below the N. face. Traverse up and left on a snowfield to the foot of the couloir. Head up this couloir for several hundred feet, climbing through a narrow, 50 degree crux near the top. A cornice in late spring/early summer marks the top of the first leg of the couloir. At this point, the couloir makes a sharp bend SE (to climber's left). Another few hundred feet of climbing on 40-45 snow/ice brings you to the top of the couloir, and the bottom of the final summit pitch.

While there are several ways to reach the summit from the couloir's end, the cleanest is a direct ascent of the summit block. From the top of the couloir, traverse out to climber's right, and locate a crack system that leads 100' to the summit over blocks and ledges, and some loose rock. The difficulty never exceeds low 5th, but a rope may be handy. If a rope is used, use long slings to prevent expelling one of the numerous loose rocks occupying the ledges along the way. If a rope and gear are used, a set of medium stoppers and a cam or two (nothing bigger than #1 camalot) will suffice. Only a few pieces are necessary to protect this 100' pitch, which ends abruptly on the tiny summit.

The most expedient descent to Blain Basin follows the upper portion of the standard route to Lavendar col, and then down the East couloir back to Blain Basin. If you hit this when snow is plentiful, more than 1000' of glissading awaits you on your return to your tent.

Essential Gear

For snow: Crampons, alpine ice axe.
For ice: A second tool and a handful of ice screws may be necessary.
For summit pitch: Medium/large stoppers, 2-3 small cams (nothing larger than #1 Camalot).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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