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| N. Face   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.27060°N / 118.6728°W Route Type: Scramble/climb Time Required: One to two days Difficulty: 5.7(?)
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| Page By: dug Created/Edited: Jul 9, 2004 / Jul 15, 2004 Object ID: 161466 Hits: 1428 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Approach as for any of the eastern routes. McGee Cr. Trail head provides fast access to Longley res.
Route Description
First of all this is somewhat of a disappointing route. Lots of very loose rubble and much traversing. It would be better as a winter/early spring route. Start by climbing about 200-300 ft up the couloir from the northern glacier, that could be followed all the way to the east ridge. At the ledge system traverse out west and follow the obvious ledge system on loose crap climbing over 2 minor ribs. Eventually you will come to a more distict rib. Cross the rib and start climbing directly up on the western side of this rib. You will then have the option of climbing a snow chute or continue on rock up the edge of the rib. When you come to a choking off of the chute, climb up on better rock of the western side of the chute. Stay high and above the gut of the chute and then you will be forced directly into the snow of the upper part of this chute. This will take you to a high notch in the east ridge not far from the summit. The final pitch of the east ridge can then be climbed to the summit. The 5.7 dihedral is just before reaching the top of the chute and climbs the right hand wall. Its very anticlimatic and hardly worth climbing due to the easy bypass. Descent can be made down the east ridge or N couloir (icy in late season)
Essential Gear
The route can be class 4ed to the east ridge. Slings and a rope for the less tolerant to exposure. Crampons and axe are recommended. For the 5.7 some mid-large sized hexes or cams will do.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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John Muir Wilderness
