The approach to Hotlum Glacier is from the Brewer Creek trailhead. It can be also approached from the North Gate trailhead. By chosing this option, however, you will bypass the lower section of the glacier.
Using the North Gate approach follow the trail until you get above the tree line. At that point you will see a morain to your left. Climb the scree slope to the top of the morain (this can be done in numerous places). Once on top of it, you will see a big flat area that you will need to traverse until you get close to a creek coming down from a glacier. There are many great spots to set up a base camp (elev. ca. 9600'). This is a view you will see from there.
In the summer there is plenty of water in the creek, so no need to melt snow. It can get windy, so make sure you anchor your tent properly, or it may not be there when you come down from the summit.
There is approach allows you also to make a side trip to Chicago Glacier, which is a good spot for a crevasse rescue practice.

Route Description

Hotlum Glacier is easily identified by the tall headwall that stands above it. First climbed in 1963 by Allen Steck and Bob Tripp, this glacier with its three icefalls, big crevasses and steep ice gullies provides variety of challenging options. Degree of difficulty will depend on chosen variation, but in any case this is one of the more difficult climbs on the mountain and shouldn't be underestimated.
I haven't climbed the lower portion of the route, so if you have any beta regarding the lower icefall or any other obtacles, please emailme or just add that info to this page.

According to the guidebook the lower headwall, which contains the lower icefall can be either climbed directly (requiring climbing loose rock and blue ice) or bypassed to the right (north).
Following that, pass the middle icefall on your right and then upper icefall on your left. There are of course many options, depending on your route-finding skills, commitment and desired level of difficulty.
This photo shows the upper Hotlum Glacier route using the North Gate TH aproach.

There are three main variations of the last portion of the climb. You can either climb directly up the headwall, the ice gully to the left of it or the one to the right of the headwall.

The headwall itself requires 3-6 pitches of climbing loose volcanic rock with the most difficult sections rated 5.8.

The ice gully to the left of headwall is sustained (up to 55 degrees according to rhyang) and may require crossing the bergschrund below. It curves to the right and ends below the top of the headwall. From there depending on the conditions a short scramble over loose taulus may be required to reach the summit ridge.

The ice gully to the right of the headwall is considered one of the Shasta's steepest and longest ice climbs. It appears, however, that the first section, just above the glacier is melted and may require climbing some rock, so be prepared.

Chosing either one of those variation, once the ridge above the headwall is reached you will see the summit pinnacle. The climb is practically over. A short, easy traverse will take you to the summit.
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge would be my recommended descent route.

For those who want to experience glacier travel without getting into technical ice or rock climbing, it is possible to cross over from the upper Hotlum Glacier to the Step on the Hotlum - Bolam Ridge and climb the last portion of that route to the summit. Another option would be to climb to the left and join the Hotlum - Wintun Ridge (upper section of this route is quite steep though).

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe, rope, crevasse rescue gear. Depending on the chosen variation the climb may require rock protection, ice screws and ice tools.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images



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