| "Schiefer Gang"and Southwest wall Route |
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| "Schiefer Gang"and Southwest wall   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Tyrol, Austria, Europe Lat/Lon: 47.10680°N / 11.16560°E Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: II
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| Page By: JoPo Created/Edited: Jul 20, 2004 / Dec 1, 2004 Object ID: 161574 Hits: 658  Loading... Page Score: 79.8% - 1 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Head from the Franz-Senn-Hütte towards the Horntaler Joch but keep below the last rocky parts (on the right of the trail). If you approach from Lüsens, go to the Horntaler Joch and get down on the south side below the rocky parts on the side.
From there climb the gras slope (which is easy though the trail is hardly detectable) until you either find the trail or reach the ridge. The part of the ridge you need to find is the col on the very left part of the signature picture (on the main page).
From there follow the trail which turns to the north side of the ridge.
Route Description
When the really rocky part begins, a (red marked) trail goes diagonal through the southeast face (Schiefer Gang). Occasionally one finds hooks for fixing a rope. Follow this "Schiefer Gang" about 70 m and follow the steep couloir upwards. Again one finds occasionally hooks and vanishing rests of a red colour. When the couloir is divided into two couloirs follow the left one (The forking is seen in the picture) until you reach the northwest ridge. Follow this ridge strictly towards the summit. Don't leave it towards east (even when you find it might be easier - it is not - but more slippery).
Ascent from OberIss: 4.5 h Descent 4 h.
Essential Gear
It is possible to make this without climbing gear (I made it) though this is recommended only to climbers which are 100% perfect in climbing UIAA II (better III): Keep in mind that you have to go down with the same difficulty as well and consider the weather to get worse.
To make a long story short: Take a rope and a harness and some biners with you.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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