| Rosenlauistock West Ridge Route |
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| Rosenlauistock West Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.67310°N / 8.18100°E Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: UIAA IV+, A0 (YDS 5.7)
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| Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni Created/Edited: Aug 14, 2004 / Jul 14, 2009 Object ID: 161822 Hits: 1320 Loading... Page Score: 86.48% - 2 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Introduction  Rosenlauistock on the left
Rosenlauistock at 2198 meters is the lowest pinnacle of the west group that includes Tannenspitze, Engelburg and Sattelspitzen. One can climb these towers separately or traverse the entire group from west to east.
ApproachFrom the Engelhorn hut, one follows the hut trail towards Rosenlaui until one is below the NW flank of Rosenlauistock. Here there is an obvious fork in the trail, which leads to the base of the west ridge. One follows this trail, which descends a lttle until one reaches the beginning of a set of plates, which one ascends to reach a continuation of the trail. One stays on the trail until a prominent gully that descends from the west flank. Follow this gully towards a grassy pass until the beginning of the west rdige proper is seen and traverse over to it on the climber's trail. About 1/2 hour from the hut.
Route Description
The first pitch of UIAA III reaches a grassy shoulder, which is crossed to the base of a gully. Up the slightly overhanging chimney/gully, which is the crux at UIAA V+ or IV+ A0 to the ridge proper. Now up the ridge crest and through a small talus filled gully, UIAA III. Left out of the gully via a small, steep crack with good holds, UIAA III. Holding to the right, a series of cracks are ascended - UIAA III+ to IV - and then to the left to the base of the actual summit block of Rosenlauistock. Here there are 2 choices. The direct ascent through cracks in two pitches of UIAA IV+ to V or the "Classic"route which first traverses to left into the NW flank (UIAA IV) and over steep rock bands to the summit, UIAA III. 1 1/2 to 2 hours from the base.
DescentDownclimb/scramble the exposed SE flank to the pass between Rosenlauistock and Tannenspitze. From here the traverse of the West Group is continued, but if descending, continue down the grassy slopes on the climber's trail until a easy to find rappel station (the "Liftwing") is reached. After rappeling 20m, continue on the trail and over plates back to the base of the west ridge.
Essential Gear50 m rope, regular rack (some protection in place, but some of it is suspect), slings, carabiners, rappel gear, helmet!
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Alps - Western Part
