Peak G Direct

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Geography

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Routes

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.73160°N / 106.3204°W

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Class 4

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Page By: truchas

Created/Edited: Aug 22, 2004 / Aug 22, 2004

Object ID: 161898

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Page Score: 86.2% - 1 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

Start from the Piney River Ranch Trailhead (see the "Getting There" section on the main page). Hike up the trail for about 6 miles past Pt. 12361. The trail doesn't gain much elevation at first and even loses some elevation in places. The starting elevation at Piney Lake is about 9400 ft. At about mile 3.5, the trail steepens in places and at about mile 5 you will cross an opening in the forest with a steep gully leading off to the left with a stream coming down from Ripsaw Ridge. This is the standard route up E. You will need to continue hiking for another mile or so along the Piney Creek Trail. The topo map shows the trail crossing the creek to the west but this is not necessary. There is a trail on the east side of the stream.

Route Description

At this point you will need to leave the trail and start hiking southeast through the forest. Bushwack up several hundred feet until you meet a gully and a rock glacier on the other side. Hike parallel to this gully in the forest until the gully disappears into the rock glacier. Join the rock glacier and scramble up some extremely unstable rock. Higher up in this rock glacier a gully between peaks F and G will come into view. Hike directly up this gully.

For G, you will hike almost to the saddle before scrambling right along some very rugged and steep 3rd and 4th class rock. Good routefinding will probably lead you around the 5th class stuff but I wouldn't rule it out. Scrambling all the way to the Ripsaw Ridge and the saddle between F and G will lead you to a technical climb up to G, thus the reason for traversing below G before you get to the saddle.

Essential Gear

Earlier in the season, ice axe and crampons will be needed. This is a rugged climb and boots and a helmet are highly recommended.