Start at the Lena Lake Trailhead (650 feet). The trail switchbacks up 2nd growth timber and in about a mile or so enters virgin timber. At 3 miles, the trail branches. Take the left branch (the right one goes to Lower Lena Lake). In another half mile the 2 branches re-merge just above the west fork of Lena Creek (good source of water). From here the trail follows the valley for another mile and enters the park. Pick up a back country permit from the box. If unavailable, get one from the backcountry ranger. In another half mile or so the trail crosses a small creek via a log bridge. On the other side is a good spot to take a break. Refill water bottles. The trail immediately starts up a relentless series of switchbacks and in about a mile reaches a slippery rock stream crossing of Lena Creek (much of it may be flowing underground) at a small waterfall. The trail levels off some and as it traverses meadows, rock gardens, and stands of trees. Then one final, brutal steep section that nearly dispenses with switchbacks altogether to get around the headwall just below Upper Lena Lake. At about 6.5 miles and 3,900 feet of elevation from the trailhead is Upper Lena Lake.

Route Description

From Camp 9 on the south side of Upper Lena Lake follw a faint waypath about .5 miles to milk lake. Go left around the lake (on the east side) to the base of a small permanent snowfield. Avoid the temptation to ascend the large scree and boulder fan that comes right down to the lake. What appears to be solid rock is actually scree holding hands. Ascend the snowfield toward the saddle above it, staying to the right. At the right of the saddle is a prominent notch that looks inviting, but leads to cliffs on the other side. About 150 feet below the notch, veer right (northwest) toward another notch that is hidden when you are down below. Scramble up the exposed, loose ledges with trees to hold on to until the ridge crest is gained. There is about a 10 foot section that is quite exposed and offers slim pickings on hand and footholds (still, non-technical). Easy scrambling to the summit on the north from there.

A word of caution: I found it very difficult to avoid sending all sorts of rocks tumbling down. Fortunately, I was the only one on the mountain that day. Watch out for your buddies.

Essential Gear

10 Essentials
Ice axe
crampons (the snowfield is very icy later in the season)
Helmet (ABSOLUTELY)
Rope (the one part of the ledge can be a tricky downclimb due to the looseness of the rock)

Miscellaneous Info

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