| Traverse to East Summit Route |
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| Traverse to East Summit   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 48.49500°N / 120.997°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Less than two hours Difficulty: Class 3
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| Page By: Klenke Created/Edited: Sep 16, 2004 / Nov 23, 2004 Object ID: 162198 Hits: 1081 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
The approach to this traverse is either the Southwest Slope Route or the North Face Route, which both end at the West Summit. The traverse begins at the major saddle immediately east of the West Summit. It is a Class 2/3 scramble to get from the West Summit to the saddle. Or, if coming up from the Southwest Slope Route, you can bear rightward toward the saddle before going up to the West Summit.
I include this route description for those who might wish to visit the triangulated (at 9,112 ft) East Summit. The West Summit has not been triangulated. However, it is definitely higher* so there is really no need to go to the East Summit unless you want a slightly different perspective on things (for instance, a better view of Park Creek can be attained from the East Summit).
* To compare the two peaks I laid my ice axe horizontally on the highest rock(s) of the East Summit and then sighted along its shaft toward the West Summit. When I felt the shaft was pointing directly at the West Summit's highest rock(s) I stepped to the side of the axe and looked at it closely to see if there was any discernible tilt toward the West Summit. There was an upward tilt toward it but only just barely. Hence, the West Summit is the highpoint of Mt. Buckner. Some have used 9,114 ft for the guesstimate. To me it seemed more like five feet higher than the East, thus 9,117 ft. No matter.
Route Description
From the major saddle just east of the West Summit, go 25 paces along the ridge over the top of the first rise. Drop down on the south in a depression and contour 30 feet to round the south side of the next gendarme. From the corner you should be able to see a notch with the East Summit visible through it. This notch is right of a tower with yellow lichen clinging to its south face. Aim toward this notch on ledges. From the notch, simply cross onto the north side of the next gendarme thence to the ridge crest and take it all the way to the East Summit.
Time = 20 minutes.
Difficulty = Class 3 but loose and/or licheny in places.
Essential Gear
No special gear necessary. It is merely a scramble, but loose in places.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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