Get on the Chang PIng Gou trailhead at the ruins of the Buddhist monansty and walk for about 10 minutes on the wooden path until you see a bridge on your right. After crossing the bridge, follow the trail just past the corral and rock house, about 5 minutes. Here you leave the valley trail and climb into the basin under peak 2 (the second sister). You will hike up from 3300 m past timber line to 4450 m. This is the best place to camp, BC.

Usually horses are used to carry camp equipment up to BC and this makes the trail is verry muddy when wet. I recommend using horses if you are pressed for time.

Route Description

The climb goes north out of the basin beneath the 2nd Sister to the adjacent basin from which you can reach the col between peaks 2 and 3. You decend into the basin just low enough to traverse beneath the sheer cliffs forming southern portion of the basin.

Make your way up to the center of the basin. As you near the snow field taking you to the col, you must decide whether to proceed straight up the couloir to the col, or to go north and access the upper ridges via the ridge on the north side of the basin.

The couloir is 30-40 degree snow and rock. Easy going under good conditions, but can be very dangerous when icy. You reach the col at 5000 m and the summit is at 5355 m

The south-east ridge is a long 4th class scramble and most parties carry ropes for a few sections near the summit. Basic technical gear is highly recommended in case the weather changes and you need to decend in icy conditions.

Essential Gear

Take ice axes and crampons during year round if you intend to climb the couloir. Take a rope and some basic protection which you may need if you get caught in weather as conditions turn icy very fast. could be done with lightweight boots if the weather cooperates.

Miscellaneous Info

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