From the Old Man parking lot on the 93 Southbound side (don't forget to sign in at the register) walk along the bike path for about 5 minutes. Just past a picnic table on your left, there is a small trail going off to the right marked by a cairn. Follow it onto the talus slope; cairns mark something like a trail across the talus, but at some point it's probably better to climb up the larger rocks instead of trying to follow the trail which is very loose. Either way, the Whitney-Gilman ridge is very prominent and unless completely socked in (in which case you probably shouldn't be there in the first place) you won't miss it.

Route Description

pitch 1 (normal). Start about 50 feet from the base of the ridge (really more of a butress) on its right (north side) up an obvious weakness. Climb fourth-class terrain (watch for loose holds), then angle slightly left aiming for a big ledge. Follow either a crack with several pins in it, or a flake near the right edge (more airy but actually easier). From the top of the big flake step left onto the main face (exposed move), then up and right to avoid steep rock, then back left onto the belay ledge. 180 feet, 5.4.
(variation) Climb a crack straight from the bottom of the buttress to the first ledge described in the previous section, then follow the rest of the normal version (5.7; full 60 meters if continuing on to the next belay ledge)

pitch 2: Angle left toward a dihedral with pins in it; climb up until you can out of the dihedral left. Watch for loose holds here. Make a short traverse left and then up to the next belay, a slightly inclined ledge (be very careful with the loose rocks here). 100 feet, 5.5.
Variation: go straight up,, aiming for a prominent hand crack (5.8) and belay on ledge above or continue up flakes and corners over the crux of the Pipe pitch (5.7). 100 feet or 190 feet.

Pitch 3 (pipe pitch): Right onto a ledge; then up parallel cracks to a block. Step out onto a very exposed stance on the right side of the rigde (you'll see the Pipe, which is apparently an early attempt at protection, in the crack at your feet. Clip the pin above and make the crux move; step left immediately above it. Continue above and belay on a rather small stance just below a steep wall. 70 feet, 5.7

Pitch 4: Again, step out right above the void (really airy!), clip a pin and make a short crux move (easier if you use the holds to the right). Move slightly left, and then either continue right up the ridge (more fun), or along its left side, until you reach a foot traverse at the base of a wall; traverse left and then up a little more to the next belay ledge (very big and comfortable. 80 feet, 5.6

Pitch 5 (crux): Up the obvious crack/flake, then up the face on the left. Climb fairly easily (many lines possible) aiming for a small overhang with pins in it. There are a number of ways of getting over the bulge, and all have fixed pitons; the easiest (5.7) follows a series of small ledges way off to the left until you're able to move up a groove (holds well-marked with chalk). If you try to pull the bulge straight or on the right, you're in 5.9 territory. In any case, you end up on the crest of the ridge; belay either at a small ledge with cracks just below the top (good nut and small cam placements) or all the way a the top at a boulder. This can be linked with Pitch 4 for onr full 60-meter pitch.

Descent: follow the steep climber's trail left, uphill for a little while, then down all the way until it meets the bike path along the base, then turn left on the bike path and walk back to your car. Note: the descent can be a royal pain in the ass; if you think it's taking too long to be the right way, rest assured it's not. Just be patient...you'll get there eventually.

Essential Gear

Normal rack to 3 inches (though you could probably get by without the 3). There are a bunch of fixed pitons, especially on the upper pitches, but I wouldn't count on all of them to be 100% bomber. Bring some long slings because there are a lot of great rock outcrops. There are no fixed anchors so plan on enough gear for all belays.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images