Follow directions on main page for Fisher Towers/Onion Creek Towers to reach the Fisher Towers trailhead. From the trailhead, follow the directions on the Fisher Towers Trail page. Specifically, take the main trail toward the Titan Tower for approximately 0.5 miles from parking lot. Once the main trail brings you near and then past the base of Ancient Art complex, look for a very well-beaten climbers' trail heading left (off of the main trail) up the gully (toward Kingfisher formation) with Ancient Art formation on the left and Cottontail Tower (rightmost formation in this photo) on the right. Shortly, the climbers' path passes the distinctive Cobra pillar (this photo), veer up and left toward Ancient Art. The route starts directly below the distinctive chimney (pitch two of Stolen Chimney) on the southwest face of Ancient Art complex.

Route Description

The Stolen Chimney route has been included in the updated list of North American classic climbs (Gary and Lynn Clark's North American Classic Climbs). The route made this "exclusive" list not for its exceptional history, its significant length (<250 feet), and certainly not for its rock quality. The route has made the list for one reason and one reason only: the unforgettable summit! This is arguably the wildest summit you'll ever have the priviledge of standing on: a one square foot "wedge" atop a 30 foot spire protruding out and away from the main formation, "suspended" 250 feet above the surrounding desert. The spire is most likely NOT the true summit of Ancient Art complex (one of the other three summits is most likely taller) but that fact is irrelevant to most who climb the route.

Stolen Chimney is usually done in four, mostly short pitches. The discrepancy in the given rating (5.8 - 5.9 A0) is due to two facts. First, there exists a discrepancy in the published literature. Second, whether the route deserves a 5.8 or a 5.9 rating will depend on how many (and which) draws you pull. I believe (personal opinion) that if you aid through the first two "tough" sections below the summit spire but do the entire spire free, a rating of 5.9 is more appropirate. If you pull on the draw on the final pitch, a 5.8 is probably more fair. This of course can be debated without end. The fully free rating range (5.10d - 5.11a) reflects the discrepancy in published sources.

Route Rating Discussion (SP members):
JD: The [free] rating is inaccurate. Most folks I've talked with put it at about 10b or so. I've even freed it twice, so it can't be 5.11! I thought p3 (5.9?) felt about the same. Go figure.

poorboy44: I would say 5.9 on the P1 bolt ladder. I don't know who dreamed up 10d !

Pitch 1: 5.6 A0 or 5.10d-5.11a, 60 feet. The route starts up the easy broken ledges terrain just below and right of the namesake chimney of pitch 2. Follow ledgy climbing for about 40 feet to the base of a "washed out" steep gully (photo) with four bolts (drilled pitons actually) on it. The terrain below the gully is loose - use caution. Move up the "gully" by either pulling on the draws (A0) or using thin face nubbins (5.10d - 5.11a). It's all over 15 - 20 feet above as you reach a good ledge at the base of the chimney (multiple bolts).

Pitch 2: 5.7-5.8, 120 feet. Climb the mud chimney. Cam-eating, mostly solid looking cracks appear where you need them. Above a minor overhang you'll pass an "old belay" consisting of a weak bolt (1/2 way out of the mud) and a drilled piton. Continue up to just below the top of the chimney. At this point, move onto the low-angle face on the right of the chimney. Belay on a huge ledge with bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.6 A0 or 5.9 (?), 50 feet. The Supertopo gives the free raing of this pitch to be the same as the "gully" on P1, specifically 5.10d. This is probably a typo as all the other sources give this section a lower rating (5.9 however seemed a bit sandbagged?). From the huge ledge pull onto an obvious arete directly above the chimney of pitch 2 below. 30 feet of low 5th class climbing bring you to the first of 3 fixed pieces in the face. The free crux comes (where I slipped :) between the third bolt and the anchor atop the arete. Pulling on the draws here makes the pitch trivial.

Pitch 4: 5.8 A0 or 5.9, 50 feet. Most parties take turns topping out on the spire - i.e. the leader lowers off and top ropes the second. Walk the narrow (~18 inch) ridge toward the summit spire. Pull onto the "Eagle's Head" (a tongue like protrusion from the main spire that juts out toward the belay) via a 5.8-ish (awkward and height dependent) mantle move. Clip a bolt above and move up first via the left side of spire (5.8-ish) and then onto a narrow ledge on the right side of spire (two more bolts on this pitch). The crux of the pitch comes at the third bolt (~10 feet below the top) as you need to mantle onto a sloping face on right side of spire. Done free, this I think would be an awkward 5.9-ish move. There's a permanent anchor consisting of slings tied off around the top of the spire from which you can lower off and top rope your second (check the slings!!).

Descent:
From top of P3, rap with one rope to top of P2 belay. From here you either rap (double ropes) to top of P1 or if you have two 60m ropes you can rap directly to the ground.

Essential Gear

Mid-sized rack with cams from about 1/2 inch up to a #3 Camalot (~3 inch piece). Possibly doubles in the 1-2 inch range. Some nuts (a handful - go easy here). If you're going to aid the curxes, most can probably do it by pulling on draws. You could however bring an aider or two (we brought 2 and used them on the P1 crux).

Internet Links

piquaclimber. Nice route photos. Great website overall!

gdargaud. Nice TR and outstanding photography. The whole website probably has some of the best climbing photography on the internet!

climbingmoab's page for Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art. Great resource for many Moab-area climbs.

Images



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