The NE Couloir is the broad couloir seen to the southeast of Dorothy Lake from the Wheeler Plateau. Viewed from the west side of the ridge, it is to the left of the other more technical couloirs on the NW side of the summit.

From the TH parking on the east shore of Rock Creek Lake, follow the trail to Tamarack Lakes. Where the trail veers south towards Tamarack Lakes, leave the trail and continue heading southeast to the base of the couloir.

Route Description

The best time to climb this couloir is in the springtime after the road to Rock Creek has been plowed and opened. At this time of year the entire slope is covered in snow and makes for a nice snow climb nearly 1,800ft in length. The angle is never more than about 35 degrees and can be climbed relatively easily with crampons and axe.

In summertime the snow melts off this slope completely and an ascent becomes quite the talus slog (it may be better to climb to the ridge to the left of the couloir in this case).

Once atop the couloir and onto Wheeler Ridge, follow the class 2 North East Ridge to the north summit, the highpoint.

Essential Gear

Ice axe & crampons for spring ascent. In winter or early spring, unconsolidated snow may make this considerably more difficult, and possibly dangerous with avalanche conditions.

No special gear needed for climbs in mid-summer through fall.

Miscellaneous Info

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