Approach
From Marble, take the 4WD road up the hill from town heading towards the ghost town of Crystal (with its famous water wheel). At the fork, either jeep road around Sheep Mountain will work. If you go through Crystal, don't take the road to Schofield Pass, continue instead to Lead King Basin on the North Fork Crystal River. Park at the switchback at 9700' below Devils Rockpile. A trail leads about 2 miles to Geneva Lake.
Route Description
Continue up the valley for a mile above the foot of Geneva Lake and find a crossing of the creek. The 'S' ridge (pronounced 'ess') is the apparent 's'-shaped ridge pointing towards the lake from the summit. Climb up and pass the end of it on the left to bypass a steeper section at the bottom. A chute at Class 4 will allow you to regain the ridge above its steeper bottom. The ridge then goes at Class 2 & 3 most of the way until about 500' below the summit where there is a Class 4 step (it can be traversed but it goes quickly). The ridge narrows and ends directly on the summit. The route is very loose but the Class 4 sections are fun and a little exposed. This is likely the route of first ascent by the Hayden party of 1873.
Essential Gear
Helmet, particularly if climbing below someone.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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Elk Mountains
