ApproachFrom the trailhead at Rock Creek Lake follow the Tamarack Lakes Trail past the junction of the Francis Lake Trail until it wraps around the flank of Mount Morgan. Leave the trail before it climbs up to Tamarack Lakes
Route DescriptionThere is a prominent couloir on the north face that drops from the twin summits of Wheeler Peak and is easily seen from the trail. To the right of the couloir are a series of aretes and gullies. The north arete is immediately right of the couloir. To the right of this is a faint wishbone shape arete that is slightly turned to face west. This is the West Arete.
The climb starts to the right of a pair of black streaks on the lower face and traverses right on class 3-4 ledges below the two branches of the wishbone, eventually gaining the right branch via some class 4-5 climbing. The rock is steep and blocky, we actually took two different routes to gain the right branch. Once on the arete proper the climbing becomes more exposed. Several hundred feet higher the two branches converge at a short 5.7 section. After this is passed more exposed and fun climbing is found. The arete merges with the main ridge and the summit is a short distance north of here.
Essential GearWe soloed the route, on sight without beta. It would have been really nice to have a small rack and a short rope.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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John Muir Wilderness
