| Normal Route - Huascarán South. Route |
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| Normal Route - Huascarán South.   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Ancash (Cordillera Blanca), Peru, South America Lat/Lon: 9.1167°S / 77.6167°W Route Type: Glaciar climb, Ice climb. Time Required: Expedition Difficulty: AD
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| Page By: Andinista Created/Edited: Feb 26, 2005 / Feb 26, 2005 Object ID: 164108 Hits: 4261 Loading... Page Score: 82.46% - 2 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
From Huaraz it is possible to be rented to a transport to the town of Musho, located some hours to the north by the Alley of Huaylas on the feet of the Huascarán.
Once in Musho, it is possible to contract a carrier and its donkeys to transfer the load until the camping it bases Raimondi, approach that passes through a clear footpath that it allows to overcome the low part of the mountain until the 4,200 m.s in 6 hours of march. Additionally, the entrance corresponding to the entrance to the National Park is due to pay Huascarán(USS20).
Route Description
Immediately on the field it bases, is a rocky promontory that one is due to climb by a quite noticeable step; something difficult becomes to have to draw for it with the heavy knapsack reason why it does not have to be watched in less.
The route continues most of the time through a passage demarcated with stone monoliths by a granítico rocky land. It is very important to advance well kind since it is easy to turn aside itself and any correción in this section could imply I crawl on unexpected rock. Already at the top of this rocky sector, continuous now by a footpath that zigzags awhile until arriving at the Refuge Moraine (4670 m.s). The Camping Moraine situa just a little upon the refuge, to about a 4700-4750, where between lajas of rock there are some sites to encamp and where there is water close. Continuing of the field Moraine upwards, they become to descry a series of monoliths that allow to guide themselves through rocks and to come near to a glacier language that begins to about 4,800 m.s of height. Commonly, on the glacier an affluent track marked by crampones of the previous cordadas ones can be descried, but in the case of not existing, it would be necessary to follow in the direction of the South end of the col between the North Huscarán and the South Advancing by a slope slope smooth, and after a 3-4 hours of march from the field Moraine, it is arrived at a sector of little propitious slope to install Camping 1 (+/- 5,200 ms.)
From Field 1, smooth plains in direction NE go back to arriving at traver themselves that it raises, with some sections of 40 degrees, to arriving at a denominated zone "the throat", which, depending on the season, can present/display a great barrier of seracs. From there, the last one of a canal is due to look for, that often appears like a vertical wall of some meters, but that soon becomes a gutter of about 50 degrees of inclination. Once surpassed east step, already on the 5,700 meters, exposing is due to make to traver itself in North direction, towards the col between two summits of the Huascarán, in search of Camping 2 to 5,900 meters. This zone very is exposed to the fall of great ice blocks, thus is ideal in the morning to pass it to early hours.
Camping 2 is located to the west of a great crack that is to the entrance the west of the col between the North and South summit of the Huascarán right. To spend the night in this camping, to start off early for the following morning by the summit. For it, to cross the great crack and to advance in direction and by the col for, later, overcoming the North face of the South summit doing clear to enormous blocks of ice and cracks in search of the way that finally arrives at the superior part from the enormous cap glacier that slowly accedes to an enormous and flat summit with incredible views to all the White Mountain range.
Essential Gear
By cordada: Equipment of camping of high mountain (to include snow stakes for the carp). Several ice screws snow Stakes for rapel 2 prudent droughts of 9 mm of 50 ms. Tapes express
By person: Full field equipment of shelter of high mountain 2 piolet technicians Crampones Helmet (ideal with antiboot) Harness
Miscellaneous Info
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Cordillera Blanca - RANGE
