This climb is a continuation of the South Slopes route I posted for Parry Peak. This route should be done as a long shuttle from Berthoud Pass to the Winter Park Side of the old Moffat Pass Road below Roger's Pass. To reach the top of Parry Peak, follow the Continental Divide Trail from Berthoud Pass to the summit.

Route Description

Descend from the summit of Parry Peak to the saddle between Parry and Bancroft. Climb over to the summit of Bancroft and pause to contemplate the rest of the route. From here you must descend the steep north slopes of Bancroft to the narrow Bancroft/James saddle. When I did this route this slope was very slick and extreme caution had to be used to keep from plummeting into the basin below.
The saddle is perched precariously at the top of vertical cliffs that drop on one side down into Jim Creek, and on the other into the Ice Lake basin. This saddle feels extremely remote and alpine and escape from it isn't easy. From the saddle hike north towards the left (west) side of the ridge, and climb along some ledges. These narrow ledges follow the ridge and will quickly lead you back to the ridge crest. Climb over the ridge crest and back to the eastern side of the ridge. Continue traversing across the steep slopes above Ice Lake. This section of the climb is fairly exposed, and a fall could send you over the cliffs to the lake below. Continue traversing across grassy ledges until you enter a small gully. This gully is the both the physical and mental crux of the climb. The gully is filled with scree, and there's a long way to fall. Your best bet is to stick to the sides of the gully where the rock is more stable. Climb up the gully and exit onto the mellow grassy East Ridge a few hundred yards below the summit. Hike across these shallow flats to the summit of James Peak. With proper routefinding the difficulty shouldn't exceed an easy class 3, but the exposure on the ridge can be startling.
From the summit descend the rocky north slopes and hike downhill the last three miles to the waiting car.

Essential Gear

In summer a good pair of boots, proper routefinding skill, and a sturdy pair of legs. However, in poor conditions this route could turn into a nightmare. An ice ax and Crampons are highly recomended in winter and the early part of the season. A rope for the gully might be a good idea in poor conditions, but protection would be hard to find without snow pickets and stakes.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.