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Southwest Slopes ( Normal Route)
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Southwest Slopes ( Normal Route) 

Page Type: Route

Location: Cordillera Blanca, Peru, South America

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: PD.

Route Quality: 
 - 12 Votes
 

 

Page By: Andinista

Created/Edited: Mar 17, 2005 / May 15, 2006

Object ID: 164346

Hits: 1853 

Page Score: 86.18% - 1 Votes 

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Approach

 
 
From the curve at 77 km, walk down through the forest to the meadow below. Cross the stream in the meadow, via a small bridge, and follow the obvious wide trail that heads up the left hillside to Piscoīs base camp (ca. 4,600m, 1 1/2 - 3 hours from the road).

Base camp lies in a meadow. Be careful not to pollute the water that springs from the lower part of the meadow; it is the only source. The new refugio sits on the granite hill to the east of the meadow.

From the meadow, the trail to the moraine camp begins by climbing the steep side of the moreine to its crest. Once on this ridge, drop dow the other side and cross the rock - and boulder-covered glacier, following cairns to the other side. Climb up the opposite moraine ridge, and follow the trail in the direction of the Huandoy - Pisco col, pasta latge green lake (possible campsites). From this first lake, the trail gains a little more altitude, reaching the remnants of a smaller upperlake, wherethe moraine camp is located (ca. 4,900m, 1 1/2 - 3 hours from base camp).

This Camp is located on and around the sandy floor of the old lake. The only good water is flowing from the rocks at the head of the upper sandy area. Please pack out your trash - this camp is heavily used and gets dirty easily. Defecate at least 100m below camp and the water.

Route Description

 
 
Pisco is the perfect peak for novice and expert alike. The peak can be climbed or skied. Either way, be sure to do it on a clear day to take in the incredible 360 - degree views of the range.

ELEVATION GAIN: 1,150m from base camp; 850m from moraine camp.

TIME: 3 - 5 hours from moraine camp

From camp, the trail to the Huandoy - Pisco col goes up the moraine ridge on the right side of the moraine camp, toward the granite slabs above. Follow the path and cairns up the slabs to the glacierīs edge (45-60 min. from moraine camp). Once on the glacier, hike up to the Huandoy - Pisco col (ca. 5300m). Turn right (east) and climb the gentle glacier toward the summit of Pisco, via the southwest ridge (30 - 45 degrees). The will be some crevasses to negotiate, and possibly a 3m ice wall, to gain the final summit ridge (3-5 hours from moraine camp to summit).

DESCENT: Descent by the same route.

Essential Gear

Crampons, long axe, rope, and several pickets for crevasses.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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