Approach

Follow the main trail past the trail diverging toward the northwest slopes of Ishinca. This main trail makes a few more switchbacks to the old Ingammet huts and the top of the moraine ridge. You will now be ale to look down upon Laguna Ishinca. Staying on the moraine ridge, traverse all the way around the right side of the lake. The trail then ascends steeply up scree slopes, past a rock buttress, until it is possible to traverse onto the glacier. Once on the glacier, walk easily to the col between Ishinca and Ranrapalca (5,300m, 2 1/2 – 3 hours from Laguna Ishinca).

Route Description

Resembling a giant fortress, Ranrapalca is climbed most easily via the northeast face. Along the route, you will traverse a glacier, negotiate crevasses and moderately steep snow and ice, along with a little rock. The slog across the summit plateu will be rewarded with an exciting finish.

Elevation gain: 862m from the Ishinca-Ranrapalca col.

Time: 5-7 hours from the Ishinca-Ranrapalca col.

The northeast face was a lot easier than it is now. The glacier leading up to the bottom of the face has become more broken and presents more of navigation puzzle than it did in the 1980s.

From a camp at the col between Ishinca and Ranrapalca, ascend the glacier to the left of the northeast ridge until it is possible to easily cross the bergschrund at the bottom of the northeast face. Climb 200m up and right toward the top of the northeast ridge (55-deggre snow and ice) to the bottom of the rock band cutting across the entire face. Find the easiest way to climb through this rock band (UIAA IV). Gain the summit plateu near the top of the northeast ridge.

Note: Some people take a line on the face angling up and left through an obvious break in the rock band, however the climbing is steeper above the rock band.

A half hour of plodding across the plateu is necessary to reach the true summit pyramid, located on the southeast side of the summit plateu. Beneath the summit, cross a bergschrund , then climb 50-degree snow slopes for 30m, to reach the top.

Descent: descend the route. Several rappels may be necessary to descend the upper face rock gear for anchors.

Essential Gear

Helmet, crampons, 2 technical axes, rope(60m or longer, to make the pitches longer), ice screws, pickets, and a few small-to medium size cams (for the rock pitches near the summit plateu).

Miscellaneous Info

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