From the parking area, follow an obvious drainage north/northeast directly toward the base of the peak. Route-finding is not difficult as the mountain is immediately in front of you. During the wetter months, the drainage will have some beautiful small cascades in it. Travel in the drainage is generally over smooth sandstone slopes and ledges and lingers in the class 2 (and easy 3) realm.

Once the base of the mountain is gained, the drainage forks somewhat and tends to continue to the left and more northerly. The right fork, though less obvious, initially goes to the east but then quickly leads straight up north when cliffs are encountered. This is the most direct approach to the summit.

Take the right fork and work your way up class 2, 3 and occasionally 4 slopes and ledges until you top out at a sort of notch. There is a large dead tree is this notch. From the notch, you can either downclimb 3rd and 4th class terrain, which will ultimately lead you back to the slopes above the left fork mentioned earlier, or you can climb up an exposed 5.6 crack to a ledge above. The climb is short (maybe 30 feet) and sweet. Protection can be placed if one wants, but the holds are decent (borderline good) and the climbing is fairly easy for those confident of their abilities.

From the flat ledge atop the crack, continue straight up over class 2, 3 and easy 4 terrain, choosing the path of preferred resistance and head toward the false summit above.

Soon enough, you will find yourself only a few hundred feet below the summit on a wide ledgy area with a series of narrow sandstone steps leading you upward. In dry months, this is straightforward class 2 (sometimes 3) hiking/scrambling. In wet months, such as March when I did it, these steps are ridiculously iced over and downright treacherous, though the frozen cascades and icycles are beautiful. Protecting on the thin ice is virtually impossible and the Park Service would frown upon the use of crampons on the sandstone.

Assuming the terrain is passable and dry, head up the steps, which will eventually turn back into wider ledges and ultimately cruise on up to the summit.

There's no summit register, but there is a small cairn. The views from the top are absolutely phenomenal. This short and sweet, easy summit is well worth doing.

*** To descend, retrace your steps (hopefully you brought a rope to rappel the 5.6 section) or reverse the directions on the easier and non-direct from the SW route and go that way.

Essential Gear

Boots, water, sunscreen, topomap, compass, a rope (if uncomfortable on short but exposed 5.6 terrain and/or on fairly unexposed class 4 terrain).