Topozone Map:
Ouray Ice Park

The information on this page is a combination of personal accounts and stats available from the Ouray Ice Park website.

Ouray Ice Park has become a mecca for ice climbers all over the country. Featuring 175 manmade routes ranging from WI2-WI6 and M9, this park has more climbing than anyone can fit in over several weekend trips. Easy access, and plentiful natural and man-made anchors make setting up climbs fast and easy, and climbers can switch to new routes with minimal effort, allowing for much more time to climb!

The Ice Park lies on private property, owned by Eric Jacobsen, owner and operator of Ouray Hydroelectric. He was kind enough to let some local ice climbing entrepeneurs harvest some of the water to create the spectacular walls and pillars of ice that comprise the park. A volunteer force set up a system of hoses and pipes, with spigots that shot streams of water over the walls, which then froze up into different routes. As the park increases in popularity, this pipeline has been extended to create new climbing areas.

To this day the park has been built and maintained entirely by enthusiastic volunteers, as well as donated materials and capital. The park also receives income from members and donations, which can be given at the main entrance at the Upper Bridge. Because of this, admission to the park is free for everyone.

Since I wasn't very aware of the history of the Park, I've only given a synopsis. For a more detailed account, the History Page on the Ouray Ice Park website is a very worthwhile read.

Approach

Ouray Ice Park is just outside of Ouray, CO. From the town center, follow the main street (Hwy 550) towards Red Mountain Pass and Silverton. At the first main switchback beyond the town there is a dirt road that branches off from the paved road. Take this road, which splits. Either split crosses Box Canyon via a bridge, but the park's official entrance is at the higher bridge, as is better parking.

There are a number of pullouts for parking along the dirt road, all of which are a short walk from many of the ice routes.

Route Overview

The following are general descriptions of the different climbing areas in the Ouray Ice Park, listed in the order encountered when heading upstream or downstream from the Upper Bridge.

Upstream:
Lead Only Area
Alcove
School Room
New Funtier
South Park

Downstream:
Lower Bridge
Scottish Gullies
The Fingers
Shithouse Wall
Gazebo Wall

Rock Climbing (no dry tooling):
Rock Park

New Areas (Winter 2004/2005)
Graduate School

Essential Gear

Minimal Gear:

Crampons

Helmet

60 m climbing rope - shorter ones will not reach the ground in the School Room!

a few locking biners for setting up anchors on the chains or bolts

Slings and webbing for anchoring off of trees in the Rock Park, New Funtier, and South Park climbing areas. They are also needed for using the bolts in School Room.

Of course the obvious tools, harness, yadda yadda, yadda, are also needed. Access to Ouray is easy enough that climbers may just head into town for lunch, rather than bringing food.

Rules and Regulations

These are the rules and regulations as listed on the Ouray Ice Park web page.

Crampons are required for all persons (climbers or otherwise) in the established and posted "climber only" areas. Crampons and a helmet are required for all persons while climbing or in the bottom of the gorge.

All persons under the age of 18 must be accompanied by an adult in the Ouray Ice Park.

Dogs must be leashed while in the Ouray Ice Park and no dogs will be allowed in the bottom of the gorge.

No anchoring to any manmade structures including the penstock.

All climbing in the "Schoolroom" area must be on fixed anchors established and defined by Ouray Ice Park, Inc.

For all other questions, please contact Erin Eddy, President, Ouray Ice Park Inc. at 970.325.4288. You may also email your questions to oipi@ouraynet.com.

For a copy of the Ouray Ice Park Ice. Rules and Regulations please mail enquiries to PO Box 1058, Ouray, Colorado 81427.

Park Membership

A membership is not required to climb in the Ouray Ice Park. In fact you can climb there for free! However, being a member has some benefits such as . . .

Enables the Ice Park to continue as a free climbing facility

Helps the Park pay for annual expansion and improvements

Preferential participation in Ice Festival Ice Craft Clinics

Ice Festival Gear Auction open to Ice Park members only.

Members also get a lot of discounts in the area . . .

20% discount at most member lodges

10% - 20% discounts at local restaurants and participating merchants

20% off all Ice Park shirts, caps, etc.
For information on becoming a member, visit the Link on their website.

Lead Only Area

The Lead Only Area is where many of the featured ice competitions in the park take place, and the climbs are full pitches. The routes offer everything from long vertical stretches, to hard mixed routes and free-hanging icicles.

Approach:
This area includes climbs on either side of the Upper Bridge, so just head to the far side of Box Canyon from the Upper Bridge. All the other climbs in the park are reached by heading upstream or downstream from here.

Descent:
All routes in this area are reached via rappell from the far side of the bridge. The climbs are about 200 ft in length, so two ropes are good to have for the rappell. Look for lead only signs on either side of the bridge, where there are plenty of bolted anchors or good trees to sling.

Route Summary:
WI 4/5 - 3 routes
WI4 - 4 routes
WI5 - 3 routes
Mixed (Hard) - 7 routes

Alcove

Alcove is similar in nature to the Lead Area. The canyon bottom gets more narrow, with large boulders strewn about the creek.

Approach:
Alcove is the next route area past the Lead Climbing area when heading up the main trail that begins at the Upper Bridge.

Descent:
The upper parts of this area can be reached by walking down Box Canyon past School Room. See the School Room section for directions. The lower parts cannot be reached this way due to the river and dropoffs, so the routes closer to the bridge must be rappelled.

Route Summary:
WI 3/4 - 2 routes
WI 4 - 3 routes
WI 5 - 2 routes
Mixed - 6 routes

School Room

There is a sign announcing the School Room area. In general, the routes get more difficult as one progresses from climber's left to right. Only the existing bolted anchors can be used, and if you're lead climbing, you must also occupy the anchor above your pitch.

The base of the wall has a stream that is sometimes ice covered. When it is exposed, there are still plenty of rock ledges and a snow-covered bank to belay from on the far side.

This climbing area has a rather large cave that provides some interesting opportunities to practice dry-tooling and mixed climbing. Some nice ice columns also form over the overhang.

Approach:
This is the next climbing area reached when following the obvious path heading up the canyon from the main park entrance at the Upper Bridge. After passing the Lead Climbing area and the Alcove, the path takes climbers onto an airy truss bridge that runs over the penstock. From there climbers walk along a rubber pathway set on top of the penstock until they reach a desired anchor.

Descent:
There are two options for descent. One is to rapp off of the anchor. Another option is to walk down into the canyon. To do this, follow the penstock until you reach a trestle. Descend the left side of this and follow a path lined by fixed ropes descending into the canyon.

Route Summary:
WI2 - 4 routes
WI3 - 3 routes
WI4 - 4 routes

New Funtier

Approach: Take the approach to School Room. After passing the truss bridge and the railings, you will reach a trestle. From here the path splits. Take the right fork, which puts you on to a groomed road. Eventually a small sign for New Funtier is seen posted on a tree on the left. Follow this sign to the cliffs.

Descent: Besides rappelling, the bottom can also be reached by taking a path with a fixed line that is to the right (climbers left) of the area.

Route Summary:
WI 2 - 3 routes
WI 3 - 9 routes
WI 4 - 1 route

South Park

South Park is the area farthest up the canyon in the ice park. The ice features in this area were varied, with very easy pitches set side-by-side with more difficult pitches. The climbs are shorter than in School Room, but I found the routes to be just as fun to learn on. There are also some nice non-intimidating routes that are popular for practicing leading. The routes on the climbers right seemed to be the easiest, with harder routes intermixed with easier routes farther left. There are many good trees to use as anchors above these routes.

Approach:
There is a sign at the Upper Bridge directing you to South Park. Follow this sign if you want a workout by climbing up and down a steep hill. If you want to be lazy, follow the penstock to the trustle (as described in the New Funtier Section), taking the right fork in the pathway there. From there, walk up a groomed road until you see a sign for South Park. Carefully cross over the penstock and follow trails down through the trees to reach the area.

Descent:
Besides rappelling, you can also descend a pathway with a fixed-rope on the climbers right (downstream/hill) side of the area.
Route Summary:
WI 2 - 4 routes
WI 3 - 8 routes
WI 4 - 2 routes
WI 5 - 1 route

Lower Bridge

Approach:
Walk from the Upper Bridge down to the Lower Bridge, or if you've parked lower, just walk to the lower bridge. If you have nothing better to do, you can walk to the base of the climb by heading up Box Canyon from Ouray.

Descent:
Rappell, duh!

Route Summary:
WI 3 - 1 route
WI 4 - 7 routes
WI 5 - 9 routes
WI 6 - 1 route
Mixed (up to M9) - 15 routes

Scottish Gullies

I didn't notice any signs announcing these lower areas - they all just seemed to blend together for me. Or perhaps I wasn't paying attention? The routes get longer and longer as one head downstream, which is a trend that continues to the other areas. I think they actually get long enough to require more than one pitch to climb if ascended from the creek.

Approach:
Walk from the Upper Bridge down to the Lower Bridge, or if you've parked lower, just walk to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge, follow the groomed road downhill until you reach the area. If you have nothing better to do, you can walk to the base of the climb by heading up Box Canyon from Ouray.

Descent:
Rappell, duh!

Route Summary:
WI 2/3 - 1 route
WI 3 - 2 routes
WI 4 - 3 routes

The Fingers

I didn't notice any signs announcing these lower areas - they all just seemed to blend together for me. Or perhaps I wasn't paying attention? The routes get longer and longer as one head downstream, which is a trend that continues to the other areas. I think they actually get long enough to require more than one pitch to climb if ascended from the creek.

Approach:
Walk from the Upper Bridge down to the Lower Bridge, or if you've parked lower, just walk to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge, follow the groomed road downhill until you reach the area. If you have nothing better to do, you can walk to the base of the climb by heading up Box Canyon from Ouray.

Descent:
Rappell, duh!

Route Summary:
WI 4 - 4 routes
WI 5 - 5 routes
WI 6 - 1 route
M7 - 1 route

Shithouse Wall

This area is just upstream from the Gazebo wall. There is apparently a walk down just upstream from the wall and below the five fingers area.

I didn't notice any signs announcing these lower areas - they all just seemed to blend together for me. Or perhaps I wasn't paying attention? The routes get longer and longer as one head downstream, which is a trend that continues to the other areas. I think they actually get long enough to require more than one pitch to climb if ascended from the creek.

Since I didn't see signs for these areas, I'm not sure where I climbed, but I believe Shithouse Wall was an area where there were pre-made anchors, composed of a long chain attached to a bolt in the rock cutout across from the groomed road. The routes on the end have (looking down) a headwall, a large sloping area, and then a huge vertical to overhanging wall that drops all the way down to the creek. 60M ropes didn't seem long enough to lower a climber all the way down, and communication over the first headwall was difficult, so be careful. Someone can act as spotter and relay messages from Gazebo wall if desired.

Approach:
Walk from the Upper Bridge down to the Lower Bridge, or if you've parked lower, just walk to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge, follow the groomed road downhill until you reach the area. I believe this area is where the road reaches a cutout, and there are chains bolted to the cutout that are used as anchors. If you have nothing better to do, you can walk to the base of the climb by heading up Box Canyon from Ouray.

Descent:
Rappell, duh!

Route Summary:
WI 3 - 1 route
WI 5 - 3 routes
WI 5 - 2 routes

Gazebo Wall

I didn't notice any signs announcing these lower areas - they all just seemed to blend together for me. Or perhaps I wasn't paying attention? The routes get longer and longer as one head downstream, which is a trend that continues to the other areas. I think they actually get long enough to require more than one pitch to climb if ascended from the creek.

I didn't see any fixed anchors around this area, so you probably set them up on the trees.

Approach:
Walk from the Upper Bridge down to the Lower Bridge, or if you've parked lower, just walk to the lower bridge. From there, follow the groomed road downhill until you reach Shithouse Wall. From here you can take the long way around by sticking to the road, or shortcut through the forest following the canyon edge. If you have nothing better to do, you can walk to the base of the climb by heading up Box Canyon from Ouray.

An alternative for this route is to approach from the end of the street by the Victorian and Box Canyon Inns and walk up the closed road toward Box Canyon Falls.

Descent:
Rappell, duh!

Route Summary:
WI 4 - 2 routes
WI 4/5 - 3 routes

Rock Park

Since this page's focus is on ice climbing, I won't bother describing this route in detail. Basically it has 8 technical rock (no dry tooling) climbs ranging from 5.11a-5.12b.

For approach and climbing info, see the Rock Park page on the Ouray Ice Park Website.

Graduate School

NEW AREA! 2004/2005

This new climbing area will have 8 WI 3 climbs.

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