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Crossing Gamsov Skret
Route
Crossing Gamsov Skret 

Page Type: Route

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35297°N / 14.56298°E

Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Walk up and secured climbing

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Apr 14, 2005 / Jan 19, 2009

Object ID: 164634

Hits: 1644 

Page Score: 87.03% - 4 Votes 

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Overview

Crossing Gamsov Skret is an unmarked and very demanding route.
Crossing Gamsov Skret (the chamois toilet) is most commonly frequented by climbers heading for the Kogel S wall (situated below the Skuta S wall), but Crossing Gamsov Skret is also very atttractive for hikers/scramblers wishing to continue passed Kogel, towards Veliki Podi (a), or towards Mali Podi (Bivouac/Bivak pod Skuto) (b). The line on the image shows the way to the bivouac on Mali Podi (Small Grounds) (b).

Getting There

The simplest way to get to the Kamniska Bistrica trailhead is to take the bus (Ljubljana-Kamnik-Kamniska Bistrica).
Otherwise, follow this map (2)
From the Kamniska Bistrica trailhead to the lower station of the supply cableway for the Cojzova Koca hut, we follow a marked path and signposts for Grintovec and/or Cojzova Koca, Kokrsko Sedlo (45 min walk, starting along the road to the right of the hut).
It is possible to drive to the lower station along a macadamized road (beware: there is another hut supply cableway, serving the Kamnisko Sedlo hut).

a <---- Nice overview map of the area. Route number 4. on the map

Route Description

 
 

From the lower station of the hut supply cableway, we continue along the dirt road (the marked paths for Grintovec via Cojzova Koca on Kokrsko Sedlo are to the left). As the track splits, we stick to the one on the left, or to the middle one (they rejoin). The track to the right leads to the Crossing Zmavcarji route. The track turns into a path and starts steeply winding in the forest. We just stick to the path, and as we come out of the forest, it leads us to the right, then into a gully (Mali Hudi graben). It is tempting to follow the gully, but we should cross it, and look for the continuation of the path which soon leads us to a large meadow. It is the W face of Veliki Greben(the big ridge) which is to our right as we go straight up along the grassy slope. Further on, we stick to the left side (right bank) of a shallow gully. As it ends in scree (snakes as it gets hot!), we should continue straight ahead along One path,
until hiting the easternmost rocks of the Kogel S wall. Unless you came to climb Kogel, now search to the right for the entry of an evident gully and enter the squeeze. The crux is not more than 30m long. Start on the left and then turn right. The passage is secured with a cable and pegs (big nails you cling to, not the ones you clip in).
a) After the chimney/gully, continue straight up (grass), and then cross the chaotic gully to the right (landslide remains). Follow the enormous ledge (scree at first) which leads us eastwards towards the top of Veliki Greben. Continue to its left, keeping the same direction (some scrambling) and soon discover the Bivouac pod Skuto. To the right above the bivouac, a series of cairns direct us northwards. We cross one marked path, continue, and reach the second marked path. Following it to the left, leads us to the Skuta summit (very demanding). Following it to the right, leads towards the Rinke summits (demanding).
The closest hut we can descend to is the Frischaufov Dom (Okreselj), through the Turski Zleb Couloir, although this puts us on the N side of the range.
b) After the chimney/gully, continue straight up. The steep grass slopes lead leftwards and up to the grounds below Skuta (Veliki Podi/Big Grounds). Cross the rock-crevassed grounds, aiming straight at the Skuta S wall, zigzaging, searching for the freshly made marks of a crossing path (secured).
Beware: due to the 2003 landslide, the marked path from the Cojzova Koca hut to Sleme (eastwards) now passes much closer to the Skuta S wall. Maps do not yet depict this change. With reduced visibility, this might be quite an issue.
-An on sight descent is not recommenbable-
In case of need, the Bivak pod Grintovcem (Pavle Kemperl) is the closest shelter. It lies westwards, along the marked path towards the Cojzova hut.

Essential Gear

Helmet, Grintovci 1:25000 map, maybe some rope

Valley Accomodations

Ljubljana camping
Kamnik camping
The Kamniska Bistrica Hut is open all year long (except on Mondays).

Images




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