OverviewThis is a very demanding mountain-hiking path (well marked, secured and maintained) which requires handling metal cables and pegs for progressing on certain (very picturesque) details, mainly when weaving in and out odd rock formations while crossing the large upper central gully (Wisiakova grapa) of Planjava's SW face.
Bor puts it nicely:
"You are now walking over the airy shelves, crossing the big ravines, climbing some details and finaly you reach the totally different side: the south slopes."
The main point of this route was initially the crossing from the Kamnik saddle (hut) to the Korosica meadow (Kocbekov dom hut), or the opposite of course.
Getting ThereWe start from the Kamnik hut (Kamniska koca na Kamniskem sedlu).Route DescriptionWe leave the Kamnik hut eastwards, horizontaly (signposted Planjava, Korosica). We soon cross a scree covered slope before actually entering the Planjava wall.
This is where the secured sections begin.
We first traverse to the right, reaching a first promontory. Next a descent, and up again (loose, secured), which takes us out of a first gully.
The next one is a proper ravine (Wisiakova grapa), most amusing (hairy rock formations) as well as thrilling (and secured with wires and pegs). We now yet ascend the uneasy upper left bank of the ravine (often snow leftovers) before attaining Sukalnik, a vast promontory (this is where the coordinates in the primary info show to).
At this turn point we discover the vast funnel (Planjavske zelenice, the Planjava greens) of the upper Planjava S face.
These south slopes permit us a quite direct walk-up (only one secured squeeze) to the main summit.
From the middle of the S slope, we may also continue horizontaly (signposted Korosica) and gain the SE ridge. The ridge ascent (lefthand, marked) is then an option, another one being to continue eastwards and reverse this (demanding) route towards the Korosica hut.
Especially in the season begin snow clogs and short snow fields may cause problems in the central ravine.
Using a piolet (and even crampons!) is then recommended.
DESCENT:
Reverse,
or reverse the E route, towards the Korosica hut (Kocbekov Dom).
Essential GearHelmets are trendy.
Season begin:
A piolet (and maybe crampons) if there is still snow in the central ravine (Wisiakova grapa).
Ask about the snow conditions at the Kamnik hut,
or at the Korosica (Kocbekov dom) hut if reversing the route (on a range traverse)! Images
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