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"Spalla Isler"
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"Spalla Isler" 

Page Type: Route

Location: Valais, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.95000°N / 7.30000°E

Route Type: Ice climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD 45°/II°

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes
 

 

Page By: andrea.it

Created/Edited: May 12, 2005 / Jul 23, 2009

Object ID: 165030

Hits: 2060 

Page Score: 86.93% - 4 Votes 

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Approach

"Spalla Isler" is the name of the entire southwest flank of the mountain, where "spalla" means "shoulder".

It's not a real rocky ridge, and the route doesn't follow a precise direction.
The rock quality isn't the best, so would be advisable to choose the route in relation of the snow condition.
In case of dry mountain, climbing the rocks is safer. In case of snow, is better keep the route along the icey south wall( this way is also not very secure).

The starting point of the ascent is the Cabane de Valsorey(3030 m).
Situated at the foot of the southwest flank of Grand Combin.
It is reachable from Bourg St.Pierre(CH) on an easy path in 3.30/4.00 hours.
Musso Bivouac(3664m) could be also usefull especially in case of bad weather. It host 6 places. It's placed on the saddle between glacier du Meitin and glacier du Sonadon called Plateau de Couloir.
Reachable from Cabane the Valsorey across the glacier(PD 1.30/2.00 hours) or from Valpelline(IT) trough Col dell'Amiante and Col de Sonadon(PD 3hours).

Route Description

Usually the ascent starts 3 AM. Walking up on a gravelled path first, and than on the glacier, keeping the direction north-east (left to right), towards the evident saddle at the foot of the mountain.
The Musso bivouac is placed on the right side of it.
From there, probably time around sunrise, the south wall will be visible, and the slant of the slope increase immediately.
Climb the slope finding the better way amogst rocks and ice, pointing the top of Combin the Valsorey (40°/45° max).
The entire slope is on the south side of the mountain, and it takes the sunshine from very early.
Hot and wet air coming up from the Italian meadows, doesn't permit a good and safe snow.
The route is never difficult, but it's quite dangerous.
At the end of the slope, few cliffs take to the secondary summit of GC de Valsorey, pointed with a cross (I°/II°).
The higher point is easily reachable walking down and up along the snow dome of the summit. GC de Grafeneire.

Essential Gear

High mountain gear.Helmet,rope,crampons,best two axes,icescrews.

Images

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