Descend from Rifugio Deffeyes for about 50 m the trail for the inlet stream of Lago Azzurro. Cross the small wooden bridge and keep the right trail that leads to the upper Rutor lakes (2539m). After about 10 minutes the trail forks. Keep left and reach shorlty after a small lake known by the names of “Dans la Roche” or “Lac Sans Nom” (2602 m). Continue up to a small col at approximately 2680 m and on to the left moraine of the huge Rutor glacier. (Here at 2790 m you’ll find fixed ropes that have been recently placed after the moraine slid on the glacier. This is perhaps the most difficult spot of the entire ascent.) Past this point, leave on your left the small valley that leads to Colle di Planaval (3016m). Continue the ascent to reach the left branch of the glacier, located directly under Flambeau (3315m).
Continue the ascent with the rocks and ice of Flambeau directly to your left; pass col di Doravidi (3337 m) and colle di Chāteau Blanc (3279 m) paying attention to crevasses, until you are under the west face of Chāteau Blanc. Climb a snow gully that turns into easy rocks. Look for the best route aiming for the north summit (3408 m), and then traverse on a small, level ridge to reach the south summit (3405m). From the hut, about 3:30-4:00. Descend along the same route.

Essential Gear

Mountaineering equipment including rope, ice axe, and crampons

Miscellaneous Info

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