| Standard from the West Route |
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| Standard from the West   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Langtang Himal/Himalaya, Nepal, Asia Lat/Lon: 28.22000°N / 85.62000°E Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: UIAA I
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| Page By: cjaniesch Created/Edited: May 29, 2005 / Aug 30, 2005 Object ID: 165242 Hits: 455 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
The climb starts from the village of Kyanjing Gompa in the upper Langtang Valley where there are several lodges.
There are several options to get to the Langtang Valley. The most straightforward one is taking a bus from Kathmandu to Dhunche and from there a taxi to Syarbrubensi, which is a village at the junction of the Langtang Khola and the Bhote Kosi. From Syabrubensi it is a trek of three days to Kyanjing Gompa.
The other alternatives are entering the Langtang Valley from the south via any of three passes. The initial stages, starting at Sundarijal (reached by a short taxi ride from Kathmandu) are much the same for any of them and will lead through the district of Helambu, which is interesting both culturally and landscapewise.
The first pass, Laurebina La (4609 meters) leading over the Gosaikund Lekh, connecting Helambu with the Bhote Kosi Valley is open by beginning of April (though you still have to reckon with snow up to your hips) and will eventually bring you down to the lower reaches of the Langtang Khola in 5-7 days. Under the western side of the pass the sacred lakes of Gosainkund are to be found. They are said to have been generated by Shiva himself who poked his trident into the ground in order to find water to quench his thirst. The lakes are visited by thousands of Hindu pilgrims each year during the monsoon.
Another pass is the Ganja La (5122 meters) which is the most direct approach from Helambu to Kyanjing Gompa, requiring 5-6 day. Itīs a more difficult pass and might not be open until the beginning of June.
The last alternative is Tilmanīs Pass (5320 meters). Being a glacier pass between the famous peaks of Urkgyenmang and Gangchenpo, it is only suitable for an experienced party and leads from Helambu to the upper Langtang Valley in 6-8 days.
Route Description
Tsergo Ri (left) and Gangchengpo from the upper Langtang Valley. Photo by Nelson Chenkin.
Starting from Kyanjing Gompa (~3900 meters) follow the Langtang Khola on its true right bank for about 1km until you reach the Dranglung, a small stream coming down from the Yala Glacier to the north.
Cross the stream and start ascending along a ridge that runs towards the northeast on a faint path. Pass the stone shelters of Tarche Pisa (~4250 meters) and continue along the ridge, now pathless, until it swings to the east (~4700 meters), then drop down into a broad, usually snowfilled gully.
The summit of Tsergo Ri is now close to the southeast. Ascend the gully (we did the climb in April and experienced a lot of wet snow, that allowed oneself to sink in up to oneīs hips) aiming for a rocky ridge to the east. Gain the top of this ridge. Depending on the line you have picked to get onto the ridge, I would rate this terrain a UIAA class I scramble, if youīve picked a bad line, parts maybe rated II.
Continue ascending the ridge towards the southwest until you end up on the actual summit where there are some prayer flags.
Another route involves an overnight camp at the alp of Yala Kharka and gains the summit ridge from the east.
Essential Gear
No special equipment is needed. Gaitors are highly recomended, as are walking sticks.
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Langtang Himal
