| Trapezia from the North West Glacier Route |
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| Trapezia from the North West Glacier   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Caucasus/Karachai, Russia, Europe Route Type: Rock and Ice/Snow Climb Time Required: One to two days Difficulty: A2+
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| Page By: michaelhaifa Created/Edited: Jun 9, 2005 / Jun 16, 2005 Object ID: 165430 Hits: 526 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Near the Uzun-Kol Climbing Camp cross the bridge and start walking towards the Uzun-Kol "Poliana"(large camping grounds) where there is confluence of two rivers-Mirdi and Kichkeni-Kol. Follow the trail (steep climb in the forest), after 20 min forest ends and you find a small kosh. Behind you can already see triangle of Chat-Bashi and on the right - Dolomit massif. Mirdi river's white water is on the left. After 40 min walk approach a large pile of rocks where the trail ends. Walk through this barrier and notice a bridge (two-three logs at it's best) and another kosh near the stream that flows from the opposite side of the valley. Here Mirdi's character is changed drastically. There is a flat valley floor and river is anything but a mountain stream. However, don't be deceived by this pastoral. Back in 1989 one unfortunate hiker drawn in this waters. You already can see mountains across the valley. On the left there is Kirpich, literally hang over the valley with his North Wall; snow saddle at the top of Mirdi Glacier is Mirdi-Dalar pass which leads to Svanetia; double peak of Mirdi-Bashi and Gvandra's snow shoulder. Closer, above the valley are: pointed top of Piramid(3670m) and Ak-Bashi with it's two peaks. Don't cross the bridge, instead start climbing up, the slopis covered with birch trees and rododendron. Go straight, until you approach the bottom of the small cirque with jagged walls. It seems like a dead end. At this point traverse to the right(South), Kirpich is good road mark. Follow this direction until you see(on the left) Trapezia and the small glacier. Now turn left(East) and walk up to the glacier. There is a small lake. Here is the base of the climb.
Route Description
On the glacier try to be closer to the left moraine. Watch for stones falling from rocks around the glacier! In front of you there is a ridge of West Trapezia. In order to get on the top of this ridge climb through the snow couloir and rocks. It is perhaps the most hair raising part of the climb. When on the top of the ridge, the rest of the climb is obvious-long snow and ice climb, where belay is necessary. Slope plunge down to the large East Glacier.
This climb rewards with great views. Seems that all Caucasus is under your feet.
Essential Gear
Crampons, rope are necessary. One-two pitons in couloir might spare some tension. This climb have to be done in two days. Start from the glacier early, as snow on West Trapezia is critical!
Miscellaneous Info
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