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| german's ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Mazandaran, Iran, Asia Lat/Lon: 36.37680°N / 50.96190°E Route Type: technical rock climb Time Required: A long day Difficulty: 5.9 high altitude
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| Page By: Thomas Gurviez Created/Edited: Jun 22, 2005 / Jul 5, 2005 Object ID: 165580 Hits: 1336 Loading... Page Score: 87.1% - 4 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
The quickest and most convenient way is to use a van from Rudbarak, then Federation Camp site and Akapol at 1900 meters. The dirty road goes to the southwest in a very deep valley, you'll see another dirty road going to the south just before a big shelter (still under construction during summer 2005) at about 2300 meters. Stay on the same road, the other one leads to the start of Alam kuh normal route.
From the top of the driveable road, a little bit after Vandar Bone at 2500 meters, take the trail on the right side of the valley (in orographic meaning), cross some steep avalanche couloirs and a bridge at about 2800 meters. Then stay on the left side of the valley, you'll see a flag at 3000 m and reach the Sarchal shelter at 3700 meters (wrongly indicated at 3850 meters for some maps)
From Sarchal shelter take the Alam glacier valley to the south, go straight ahead up to 4000 m, then turn right up to the destroyed shelter at 4100 m. From the building only remain some parts of the walls. From the shelter goto a pass at 4300 m at the beginning of the north ridge, which leads to the
top of Alam Kuh at 4850 m. Be careful between the destroyed shelter and the pass because of the avalanche danger, even during summer after snowfalls.
Route Description
From the pass follow the ridge up to 4500 meters, it's sometimes necessary to leave the edge of the ridge in order to avoid difficult steps. Some equipments (scales...) hae been installed for difficult steps, so that the route isn't more difficult than 5.8+ with (normal conditions). The route can be much more difficult in winter conditions.
At about 4500 meters cross the north face to the right, then climb a corridor up to the summit.
I think the easiest way to stay on the right route is to look at the
equipments installed on the rocks and at the clues of human passage...
Essential Gear
Classical climbing equipment, most of the route is already equipped with spits.
Don't forget the helmet because of the numerous rock falls.
On late spring and early summer snow/ice gear (ice axe, crampons...) due to the heavy snowcover. In early june 2005 the whole route was still in winter conditions, cracks were full of snow and the ridge was terribly windy, which prevented us from reaching the summit.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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Central Alborz Mountains
