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South Ridge via Aelplesattel
Route
South Ridge via Aelplesattel 

Page Type: Route

Location: Allgaeu Alps, Germany, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.36610°N / 10.35070°E

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: UIAA II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: cjaniesch

Created/Edited: Jul 9, 2005 / Feb 21, 2006

Object ID: 165780

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Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes 

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Approach

The logistical centre for climbs in this part of the Allgaeu Alps is Oberstdorf, which is most conveniantly reached by car. By way of the provided link you will be able to inform yourself about accomodation, timetabels etc.

It might also be reached by train with direct connections from most major German cities, including Munich or Frankfurt.

The actual trailhead for the climb is either Oberstdorf itself (if you choose to go via the Oy Valley), or the parking lot at Renksteg, a few kilometers to the south of the city (parking is 3 € per day). Renksteg is also served by public bus.

Route Description

It´s a total ascent of 1435 meters from the parking lot at Renksteg to the top of Höfats. From Renksteg (824 meters) follow the signs and enter the Trettach Valley walking on a paved road. After 30 minutes cross the Trettach and keep following the road which ascends steeply towards the tiny alpine village of Gerstruben (1155 meters) in the Dietersbach Valley in another 30 minutes. Here the paved road changes into an unpaved track that follows the Dietersbach. Walk along the track ascending gently and reach the Dietersbach Alp (1325 meters) after 45 minutes. Here the track ends. The path towards the Älplesattel is not marked but easy to pick up beyond the alp. It starts ascending through meadows, then through woods along a small ridge. This path is in parts very steep (in fact reminding me of the unrelentingly steep paths of the Nepalese foothills) and if wet, it gets muddy and slippery. Reach the Älplesattel (1780 meters) after 1 hour.
From here turn left and start ascending the South Ridge, first through thickets than steeply through meadows until you reach the top of Falkenberg (1953 meters), a grassy knoll, 30 minutes from the Älplesattel. From here the rest of the route can clearly be seen.
Drop down to a kind of saddel between Falkenberg and the Southeast Summit and start ascending on or next to the ridge on a faint path or on grass until you reach the more rocky summit ridge. This part of the route is tremendously steep (up to 70°) and especially precarious while descending. A short scramble in sound rock leads to the highest point and the summit-cross in another 45 minutes from the top of Falkenberg.

Any climbs on Höfats, especially the one to the Southeast Summit, are really dangerous in wet conditions. Do only attempt the climb in absolutely stable weather. Wait for the dew to evaporate after clear nights.

 

Essential Gear

You should bring something to stabilize yourself on the steepest sections. While walking poles are fine bringing an ice axe might be even better.

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