IntroductionIMPORTANT!
This route description is the result of the challenge to establish a strong 3rd Class route on Mount Bancroft's stunning east ridge. Accounts of climbs following the entire ridge crest have been documented. The lower portions of the ridge involve sections of 4th and 5th class climbing on reasonably sound and pleasant granite. Several deep notches prevent passage without proper gear.
However, several possibilities were noted on the north side of the ridge that may allow access, hence the "Indirect" title of the route. The Class 3 access utilized in this route assumes the ridge crest about half way up the ridge via a narrow ramp and steep climbing on broken rock and tundra.
Inexperienced climbers should not attempt this route. Route finding, bushwacking and considerable exposure are prominent while on the ridge and there is no known bail option. Only people with Class 3 climbing experience should attempt this route, and only in ideal weather conditions.
ApproachSee the GETTING THERE section on the MAIN PAGE. There is plenty of parking at the Loch Lomond Reservoir. If you cannot drive (due to snow or your vehicle) to the reservoir (4WD required), total mileage will increase accordingly.
Route Description
SP member mtnhiker13 ascends the 2nd of two cruxes on Mount Bancroft's East Ridge Indirect Route
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson Depart your vehicle due northwest along the west shore of Loch Lomond. There is a maze of trails winding through the willows along the lake. A scant jeep road leading to camp sites will also do. This road narrows to a hiking trail which crosses several minor streams before angling west toward the towering eastern butress wall of Bancroft's east ridge. The trail follows a stream up to a bench and reaches Reynolds Lake at 11,470 feet.
Go around the east side of the lake. A crossing onto a cement dam might prove tricky during high run-off. Proceed around the lake due west over rough terrain, going around Ohman Lake on either side. A rib of solid granite rock dotted with scrub brush serves as a direct line to the upper reaches of the basin. Expect bushwacking and route finding problems through this area. In winter and spring, the area holds plenty of snow so prepare accordingly.
At 12,000 feet, look to your left. The rugged profile of Bancroft's east ridge, now to your south, beckons you with the temptation of climbing up a couloir into a notch. From the notch, look to the right to the rugged cliffs guarding the ridge and look sharp for a narrow tundra ramp making its way across the broken cliffs. This improbable possibility looks impassable at first. Angle toward it and the ramp begins to look more inviting. It is imperative that this ramp be located to execute this route within the realm of Class 3 scrambling.
Ascend the ramp, which narrows to a few feet wide in spots. It's good, solid tundra with plenty of holds on your right and plenty of exposure on your left. The grass gives way to slab rock at a norrow spot, then the excitement begins. The first of two cruxes on this route will present itself.
IU Trekkers President Jim Lierman ascends the first of two cruxes on the East Ridge of Mount Bancroft
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson In dry conditions, a scramble on steep tundra is an option to continue up the ramp. If the ground is loose, the better option is to climb up rock to your right for about ten feet and angle over to your left. Once back on tundra, climb another thirty feet and angle to the right, climbing up steep slopes and rock bands. Many Class 2 and 3 options will present themselves.
Reach the ridge crest at around 12,700 feet. This enjoyable Class 2 scramble is punctuated by a number of fun and dramatic Class 3 moves. Drop into an orange colored saddle area and scramble over a small rib of solid, pink granite. 
SP member mtnhiker13 climbs one of several Class 3 obstacles on Mount Bancroft's East Ridge
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson More fun presents itself in the form of the second crux move on the route. A pillar of tilted metamorphic layers is your next obstacle. One option is to go around on the left, dropping about ten feet on narrow rock in an exposed area and then climbing up a loose and steep enclave. But you're better off to attack this challenge head-on.
Climb up into the corner, then on tilted ledges, swing out onto the outer corner and climb directly up. A fall from this perch would be extremely ugly, so check all holds before committing any moves, for loose rock is present on this obstacle.
Minor Class 3 and much Class 2 scrambling follows for the remainder of this exiting and scenic ridge. Once the angle relents, you still have a short .15 mile distance to go to reach the domed summit of Bancroft, which is yet another Class 2 scramble (or Class 3 slab climb, if you prefer).
Descend this route back to your vehicle.
PARRY PEAK
13,391 foot Parry Peak is 7/10 of a mile further west and is an enjoyable Class 1 ridge stroll. If time and conditions permit, simply follow the ridge to Parry's spacious summit for a commanding view from the Continental Divide.
On your return, unless you wish to reclimb Bancroft, contour to the right across Bancroft's south slopes. The terrain is solid tundra and will aid in a speedy descent. A plateau will be evident. You can aim for it or slightly lower to intercept the mountain's southeast ridge and this route (see map).
In dry conditions, as you descend, look for a band of tundra descending left from the ridge into Bancroft's great east facing bowl. This will aid in your descent. Once on more level ground, angle ESE and look sharp for a closed jeep road. Intercept this road and follow it back to Loch Lomond and your vehicle.
MILEAGE AND LANDMARKS
Reynolds Lake .5 MILES
Ohman Lake .8
Granite Rib Ascent .9
Tundra Ramp & Crux 1 1.5
Ridge Crest 1.3
Crux 2 1.35
False Summit 1.6
Bancroft Summit 1.85
Parry Peak Summit 2.59
Contour 3.2
Plateau 3.5
Tundra Slope 3.9
Jeep Road 4.5
Loch Lomond 5.06
TOTALS (Includes Parry Peak)
GAIN: 2,552'
MILES: 5.06
These figures are assuming you are able to park your vehicle in the vicinity of the Loch Lomond reservoir.
Essential GearWINTER
Assuming you can reach Loch Lomond and navigate the area which is highly prone to avalanche activity, a complete compliment of winter apparell and gear would be required. Rope, rack and screws would be essential and ice climbing would likely be encountered on this route.
SPRING
Ice axe and crampons are certainly required for early season climbing along with appropriate apparell on this route.
SUMMER & FALL
Standard dayhike gear will do. Boots with good tread are strongly recommended for the climbing conditions encountered on this route.
CLASS 5 VARIATION
Assaults of the entire ridge have been documented. The lower portions involve sections of exposed 4th and 5th Class climbing, requiring rope and rack, and are not within the scope of this route description.
Images
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Indian Peaks (CO)
