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5.N.ridge/NW ridge of Niederer Dachstein
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5.N.ridge/NW ridge of Niederer Dachstein 

Page Type: Route

Location: Styria/Upper Austria/Salzburg, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.47530°N / 13.60580°E

Route Type: Glacier travel/rock ridge/via ferrata

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Rock YDS 5.4 / UIAA II to III

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: El Tigre Valderrama

Created/Edited: Aug 11, 2005 / Aug 17, 2005

Object ID: 166226

Hits: 1270 

Page Score: 73.25% - 1 Votes 

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Approach


North West Ridge Niederer Dachstein -> North Ridge Hoher Dachstein

 

From the mountain station of the Dachstein-Gletcherbahn (the cable car or Hunerkogel), take direction west over the Oberen Hallstäter Glacier, on a probably well market path as it is also the one that takes climbers to the normal routes. Eventually, take a direction towards the north, but keep on the south of the Eissteins, heading to the east spur of the Niederer Dachstein, until reaching the near of the Steinerscharte (2720 mts) From here, head to the south, to reach a snow and firn saddle, on the foot of the NW ridge of the Niederer Dachstein.

 

The climb goes up the NW ridge of the summit of the Niederer Dachstein (2934 mts), then down on its south ridge to the Hohe Dachsteinsharte (2874 mts), then it takes the north ridge of the Hoher Dachstein finally descending via the normal route on the north east face, the Randkluft-Steig


Route Description


Dachstein North ridge

Climbing the NW ridge of the Niederer Dachstein: go around the left on the first step and over the narrow ridge to a gap before a steep section, which is overcomed on the left on a crack (UIAA III, YDS 5.4). After this continue, on a flat ridge towards a small buttress called the Niederen Dachsteinkopfes (2820 mts), and eventually descending shortly to the towards the Niederen Dachsteinsharte (2790 mts).  Immediately get in the ridge (UIAA III-, YDS 5.3) and continue over the ridge climbing, and after the final steep step, get into the summit of the Niederer Dachstein (2934 mts).

 

Descent from the Niederer Dachstein’s South ridge towards the Hohen Dachsteinsharte:  From the summit continue on a flat ridge towards the Hohen Dachstein, and carry on until reaching a rock waste and left (east) into a chimney, eventually down climbing this (UIAA II, YDS 5.2) and on steep rocks keep right and cross towards the Hohen Dachsteinsharte (2874).

 

Climbing the North Ridge of the Hoher Dachstein: From the last point, first over the ridge towards a ledge, and then heading on the right, get back to the ridge. Just right of this climb over a steep plate and then again over the flat ridge towards a sentinel (tower-like rock). Down climb a little and then go left, around the following tower into the summit foot. A band leads left upright into steep terrain and into a gully or chimney, which can be passed into a rock window. Keep going shortly over easy terrain  towards the summit of the Hoher Dachstein (2995 mts) (UIAA II and III, YDS 5.2/5.3, bolted, with abseiling stands.

 

Descent is done via the Randkluft-Steig (Via Ferrata grade A/B to B,Rock UIAA II-, YDS 5.1),


Essential Gear


Glacier travel gear obligatory. One single rope, 3 quick draws, 2 shoulder slings, 2 duoble lenght slings, some stoppers.

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