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West ridge
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West ridge 

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.77300°N / 121.2788°W

Route Type: scramble and minimal snow and glacier travel

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: class 3

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: tazz

Created/Edited: Aug 16, 2005 / Feb 14, 2006

Object ID: 166334

Hits: 1353 

Page Score: 87.55% - 5 Votes 

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Approach

1.Goodell Creek TH 600'. A climbers path all the way to Terror Basin. Path is brushy but easy to follow.

2. Turn to the right after 3.5-4 miles up Goodell creek 1600'

3. Ascend a ridge gaining 3500' in about 1.5 miles

4. At a second creek crossing 5200' climb up the creek bed for 100' there is a cairne

5. Traverse to the basin on climbers paths through heather and rock

6. Climb up to a notch at 6200'

7. Descend about 400' on steep and VERY loose dirt, scree, and rock.
rock fall area so a helmet is your choice.

8. Follow the glacial stream down to the basin where the established camps are.

Route Description

1. From Terror Basin camps at 5800 ft descend down to 5500' to an outflow of a green glacial lake. There are many paths that fade in and out here

2. Cross the out flow and skirt around some slab on heather and rock.
There is a crude path here.

3. Climb and scramble up nice slab and rock to the beginning of Terror Glacier.

4. Ascend the glacier to a 30 degree snow finger up a gully. In late season this gully is full of nasty and very loose dirt scree and rock. Rock fall littered the route.
Small crevasses to the left can be avoided and were not a problem in August.

5. Once out of the gully scramble the summit ridge on a mix of rock scree and dirt. some paths are visable but are all over the place.

6. Reach a cool false summit and continue across a short class 3 section to the summit block at 8000'

Essential Gear

Ice axe
Crampons in late season or if an early start in the morning
Helmet used for the descent from the notch and for the climb from the glacier to the summit


Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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