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Punta Emma - Piaz route
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Punta Emma - Piaz route 

Page Type: Route

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.46027°N / 11.64499°E

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5° inf (UIAA)

Number of Pitches: 6

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Sep 25, 2005 / Sep 29, 2007

Object ID: 166892

Hits: 1533 

Page Score: 86.69% - 2 Votes 

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Overview

Punta Emma is the northern spur of Catinaccio main summit but most consider it as a separate summit (2610m).
It is quite famous among climbers for its 2 classic routes : the Piaz and the Steger
Haven't climbed the Steger I can say that the Piaz should be the best choice here, a little more difficult than the other one but fine and amusing :

about 200 m - 6-7 pitches
difficulties not sustained

was opened in solo by Tita Piaz in 1910 !!!

A view from Gardeccia - the Catinaccio wall, Punta Emma and Vajolet

Approach

Along the path from Rif. Preuss to Rif. Albert I° you can easily see the starting of the big crack that can be reached crossing for about 100 m to the left and scrambling for some tens metres.

Route Description

Scramble (2°-3°) to the beginning of the big crack till a comfortable ledge.
Straight along the vertical crack, 2 pitches - in the second one there is the key passage of the route (5°)
Now you must climb on the left side of the crack, along steep slabs that become easier - 2 pitches
To the left some metres and then straight on to the summit .

Coming down is not difficult (2°) but requires 1 rappel :
Go along the W ridge till the saddle between P.Emma and Catinaccio
Now, scrambling (traces of passage and cairns) till the starting point of the rappel - 25-30 metres
From here in a little time you can get the path leading to the refuge

Essential Gear

50 m long rope
some carabiniers

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images




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