Route from the Uzun-Kol climbing camp to the bridge across Mirdi river is easy to find. From this point the upper part of the climb can be seen - snow ridge over the enormous wall of Kirpich which is dominating the whole cirque of Mirdi Glacier. Further on Mirdi valley is completely flat and not similar to any valley in the Western Caucasus. River is silent just as any river in the flat European landscape. The only noise come from the numerous waterfalls, there are few small glaciers above Mirdi, one (under Piramida) is visible from the trail. Orientation is pretty easy and after one hour walk there is a huge moraine of North Dalar Glacier. Trail climb up to the ridge of this moraine, then turn left and continue through the very steap and rugged terraine along the stream, partly covered with snow until August. This trail is not very easy to find but always keep right towards the spur of Trapezia with it's narrow snow couloir. When on the top of this ascent huge rocks can be seen near the edge of the Glacier. Looking back enjoy the view of snow covered Gvandra. Mountains around North Dalar Glacier look less inviting. Huge drops of Peak Shocolad and Dalar leave anyone speachless. Wide saddle of Dalar Pass (3200m) is seen on the South. First part of the climb is also visible. There are few spots for tents near the glacier. Climb to the Dalar Pass is not difficult except a large bergshrund and 50 degrees snow above and beyond. With hard snow it can take a while. From the pass there is a breathtaking panorama of snow mountains - Okrilatavi, Moguashirha and Saken among them, they belong to the least explored Mountains of Svanetia and today are out of reach.

Route Description

From the pass climb towards a false summit. There is a sign (tour) on the rocks of this summit left by geographical survey in 1930th. Now there is the most critical part of the climb. Technically it might be easy but not psychologically - there are drops of 1000 m on the both sides of the ridge. Add to this a short slope of 60 degrees and this climb can be quite an experience. I don't even mention views from the summit, with Central Caucasus soaring above the glittering conus of Shtavleri and as far as one can see - mountains of Western Caucasus, one group of peaks above the other. Streams in the wild, green valleys of Svanetia and Elbrus like a presidium of all Caucasus.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and rope, crampons in August-September. One, two ice screws may be useful if climbed in August-September.

Miscellaneous Info

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