This is an excellent route (5.7+) with the first ascent only in 2003. Combine it with High Anxiety (5.7), Mr. Clean (5.8+), and Birthday Boy (5.6+) for some excellent moderate trad climbing. It's a little dirty in places since it hasn't been an established route for very long but it's not too bad. Don't let the ratings fool you, none of them are as easy as the ratings would imply. Ratings in Oklahoma are sandbagged as compared to some other parts of the country.

Approach

Drive up the mountain for 1.4 miles to the third pull out on the north side of the mountain. Park at the third pullout and walk down 20 yards (east) to the end of the guardrail where a trail will begin left through the rocks. Follow the climbers trail down to the top of the crag and continue on until it switchbacks to the right down below the cliffs. Scramble up towards Repeat After Me with its 3 overhangs. The route is just to the right of Repeat After Me in the next dihedral over.

Route Description

FA: Chris Corbett 2003

Although Tony Mayse's Guidbook "Oklahoma Select" rates this as a 1 star out of 4, I would disagree. This is a fun and sustained route, much harder than its neighbor "High Anxiety". I might have given it a higher rating myself, but perhaps it's the sustained part that makes it feel much more difficult than the 5.7 High Anxiety. It is almost vertical and placing pro can be a balancing act as there are few good ledges to stand on while placing gear.

The route is very straightforward. Just fullow the crack in the dihedral straight up and over a slight roof near the top.

Essential Gear

This route eats gear so bring 4 or 5 quick draws along with a selection of nuts and cams up to size 3 (mostly small cams though). Bring a long piece of webbing if you intend on setting up a belay or top rope at the top as there is a large boulder which makes for a good anchor. Watch out for the wasps at the top!