-Approach from the Silt Lakes near the headwaters of the West Fork of Rock Creek. Near the base of Castle, scramble to the north into a basin with a giant perpetual snowfield. Cross this snowfield to the bergshrund at the bottom of the wide, steep, and straight couloir

Route Description

-The bergshrund is 30+ feet deep in the middle and stretches all the way across the couloir. It is too wide to step/jump over, and is constantly swallowing water, snow, and rocks pouring out of the couloir. We climbed about 10 feet down into the bergshrund onto a snow pillar on the far climber's-right side, and then climbed out on rocks using our ice axes and crampons. There is a good belaying spot on the near side of the bergshrund, but the only safe one on the far side is obscurred by a boulder, so the second climber and belayer must be able to hear and speak to eachother.
-From the otherside of the bergshrund, climb the far right side of the bottom half of the couloir, which is well protected from rockfall by a cliff, but this cliff becomes an obstacle about 1/3 of the way up the couloir. From the base of the cliff, one must climb farther into the middle of the couloir on hard water ice and exposed to rock fall. The rocks fall fairly quietly making little contact with the snow, so one must watch above for falling rocks. Climb up the harder ice, around the cliffs, and back over to the far right side, which is better protected and has softer snow from more sun and less water.
-Towards the top of the couloir, the rock fall danger decreases and one is able to climb straight out onto the summit ridge. The summit is the point to the climber's-left of the couloir, and is marked by elevation-less USGS pins.
-Descend by crossing south on the summit ridge, scrambling/down climbing on the far end of the southwest (Beartooth Plateau) side of Castle to Omega Pass, and descending the two large snowfields below Omega Pass back to the headwaters of the West Fork of Rock Creek.

Essential Gear

-Ice axe (probably two per person), crampons, rope (because of the hungry bergshrund), and helmets (because of the constant rockfall) are all essential.
-Snow pro (deadmans or pickets) are not really needed in the couloir and would use up too much time, but might make one feel better around the bergshrund.
-Definately bring a good lunch, camera, and map to the top if it is a clear day, because there are great views of many of the biggest peaks in the Beartooths (Granite and Whitetail among others) and into the northeast corner of Yellowstone National Park

Miscellaneous Info

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