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Ouray, Colorado: Camp Bird Road
Route
Ouray, Colorado: Camp Bird Road 

Page Type: Route

Location: --/Afghanistan/Albania/Algeria, --

Route Type: Ice/mixed

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: between WI4 and M9

Route Quality: 
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Page By: CClaude

Created/Edited: Jan 12, 2006 / Dec 18, 2006

Object ID: 168218

Hits: 2346 

Page Score: 86.47% - 2 Votes 

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Approach

To be completed

Route Description

The Ribbon (WI4)

Bird Brain Boulavard (M7) No info yet


Easy Mixed Climb at Camp Bird

Unnamed Mixed Route (M5/6): New route not described in any guidebook. About 100ft to the right of Skylight.
Short bolt protected mixed climb up a left face near a corner lets you pull a SMALL roof (ok, really tiny) leading to a crack to the right side leading to the anchors. Very good first mixed climb (ie: extremely grid bolted)

Skylight (WI4/5 M5) The first main slot with a small chockstone at the top of the first vertical section (about 30ft above road level)


Choppos Chimney

Choppo's Chimney (WI4/5): P1: WI2-/30ft. Wonder up through a slot leading to the base of the large flow at the back of the slot. P2 (WI4/5 140ft) obvious where it goes with the crux at the top (in the confines of the chimney where you get abbreviated ice axe swings. Rappel from the top of the route from a tree with slings


Slippery When Wet

Slip Sliding Away(WI4/5 M4/5): A short near vertical pillar (~50ft) brings you to a ledge with bolts on the right side (2 bolts can be used to form a belay station otherwise with a very long sling it canbe sed to protect the rock crux). The crux comes as a rock step of 10ft with often a ribbon of ice in the back. Rock gear can be placed high in the back of the slot (BD 0.75 or 1). Edges allow you to get your feet up to swing into a smear of ice which will bring you to the top (often the top smear will accept shorty ice screws or less but is at a 45degree angle) Belay off of a large tree slung with slings at the toip of the route. Rappel from the tree to the base (60m ropes will bring you all the way to the base)

Slippery When Wet (WI 4): A short vertical section (70ft) brings you to a shelf, in which a short vertical section 20ft leads to a tree with slings or two bolts to the far right side

Essential Gear

Skylight: Ice gear (17cm screws) + rock gear(specifically BD 0.75 and 1.0 camalots)

Choppos Chimney (assortment of 17cm screws) and slings

Slippery when Wet (7cm and 17cm screws, rock gear (medium cams), slings

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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