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| Dutch direct   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Ecuador, South America Route Type: Mixed, ice climbing and rock Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: Ice 70 degree, rock 5 UIAA
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: Jan gULDEN Created/Edited: Jan 17, 2006 / Jan 17, 2006 Object ID: 168270 Hits: 596 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
From Banos-Candelaria-Penipe-Vaqueria d'Inquisay by car, truck or taxi. At the end of the road start walking. Cross the river at the bridge and a long valley opens. At the end of the valley you climb a long steep slope covered with spiniflex. You van camp on the top of the slope. Follow the ridge as far as you can get and make a basecamp. You enter the glacier at the right side of the ridge and climb it slowly till you reach the start of the routes on Obispo.
Route Description
The route that is mentioned in the most guides as the best way to climb the Obispo peak is the Italian route. The first length to the first icefield has become tricky and sometimes impossible. Also has the ice couloir at the top of the Italian route changed into shooting galley. Better is to take the Dutch route that starts at the same spot but take's off to the right side were a small gulley leads directly tot a ice ridge which leads to the first icefield. A small traverse and a steep almost vertical ice passage (3 meters) will take you to the second icefield. that leeds directly to the top couloir. After 2 ropelenghts in the topcouloir you can step out to the right (piton) and a passage 5 rock step (UIAA) will leed to the top slope (rotten rock).The Dutch route climbed by Cas van de Gevel, Leo Zijerveld and Jan Gulden in 1991. Is a TDinf alpine route, 75 degree ice (1 lenght) and 1 passage rock degree 5-. The rest of the route is snow and/or ice maximum 50 degree. Highly recommended as it is a very straight line to the top.
The descent can be dangerous as ther can be a lot of rockfaal in the top couloir as the sun reaches the summit. Start early and leave quick!
Essential Gear
Steep Ice gear, some screws (max 5) some protection gear for orck (there is not much possible as the rock is pretty rotten.
For the descent you'll need a double rope and some slings.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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Cordillera Oriental (Ecuador)
