ApproachSee Point Five Gully.
From the hut go directly to the gully. The first pitch is a beautiful ice fall, on the right hand of Orion Face Direct.
Route DescriptionFirst Pitch. Climb directly the ice fall. 80º, 50 mts. Belay on ice screws, or V-thread.
Second Pitch. It follows up the ice fall. 80º, 50 mts. Same type of belay than the last one.
Third pitch. Easier, 70º.
From here follow the couloir up in a less steep slope simul-climbing, and just placing ice screws from time to time in steeper sections. You can find cornice at the top.
Essential GearIce stuff full rack. 8 to 10 ice screws Don´t trust some guys who tell you to carry less, you will need enough protection for the first 100 metres. Two ropes, helmet, ice axes (technical)....etc.
Don´t forget the compass or gps and a good map, just in case of bad weather (most than probable in these latitudes)
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Grampian Mountains
