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Red Dihedral
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Red Dihedral 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.12000°N / 119.41°W

Route Type: Technical Rock

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.10c

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: kovarpaCClaude

Created/Edited: Feb 6, 2006 / Jul 23, 2008

Object ID: 168466

Hits: 813 

Page Score: 86.71% - 2 Votes 

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Approach

See the above to get to the base of the climb. When you reach the base of the climb, angle up to a triangular rock formation on the main west face of the route. The start of the route takes a class 4 scramble on the left side of the triangle.

Route Description

Supertopo has an accurate description of the route. It is a VERY fun must do route

p1: from the scramble angle right up an obvious ramp/crack until reaching a small stance (5.6ish)
p2 (pitches 2 and 3 in the guidebook can be combined with a 60m rope to reach the base of the major dihedral system. Angle right up through cracks with acceptable pro reaching the dihedral system. Belay at the base of the dihedral system with a black diamond 0.5 and 0.75 camalot. 5.8
 
Climbing at the start of pitch 2

p3 (p4 in the guidebook) Known as the Red Dihedral pitch for obvious resasons. A long pitch (~120ft) of moderate difficulty (5.10a) up the dihedral. Use many cams of the same range (black diamond 1.0 and 2.0 camalots) leads to an overlap taking smaller cams (black diamond 0.3 microcamalots) then pull up high on the overlap and step right to a belay (guidebook suggests small stoppers-bad; or black diamond 3.0 and 3.5 camalots).
p4 (with a 60m rope run the next two pitches in the guidebook) step right reaching a crack which is taken straight up for 150-160ft reaching a stance at the base of an wall with a splitter crack above) 5.9
p5 take the splitter crack (0.5 to 0.75 blackdiamond camalot jr size) straight up to its end and continue. Continue straight up till you reach a large stance with a pillar that is split 5.10a
 
Moving off the pillar belay ledge at the start of pitch 6

p6 step to the left of the pillar and follow the crack to the left of the pillar till a good stance. 5.9
p7 follow a crack slightly to the right of the good stance up a crack to \very moderate terrain bringing you to the rim.
(to be completed later)

Essential Gear

60m rope suggested
camalots (0.3 to 3.5 black diamond sizes) double set useful
slings

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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