From the base of the buttress, near trails end, head up and left along the base of Gray Eagle. Locate a small trail that winds through buck brush and manzanita. This short trail wanders to the base of southeast corner of Gray Eagle. White quartz rock signatures the start to this route.

Route Description/Beta

This route starts at the toe of the SE face, next to the gully between Gray Eagle and Red Eagle. The route goes as followed:

Pitch 1 (200')-
Start at the white quartz and follow up a shallow right facing corner to an small arch (small gear, Aliens helpful). At the end of the right trending arch, a bolt is encountered (.10a). Pass up and left above this bolt and follow the center portion of the face, passing 2 more bolts. Pass a large roof on its left and head up to a corner above the roof (2 bolts anchor.

Pitch 2 (195')-
Continue up and right, passing the left facing corner near the belay. The first ascentionists left a purple sling girth hitched around a large knob to mark the way above the corner. Many knobs knobs above can be used to protect with slings...and nuts in between closely spaced knobs! One protection bolt is found 25 ft off the belay. This pitch ends at the beginning of 20 foot crack (1 bolt and nut placement).

Pitch 3 (190')-
The last pitch starts by heading up and right on steep knobs (sweet climbing!). Pass 3 bolts along the way and use nuts to protect along the way. Continue up on steep knobs to a large crack leading to the summit. The anchor is located at a large natural hole (2 bolts). The rappel route is just 25 yards to the right.

F.A. Matt Schutz and Dave Daly, Aug 2005

*The Rappel Route*

This rappel route is located 25 yards to the north of the finishing anchor. The descent is exposed and wild! The use of two 60 meter ropes or one 70 meter rope will make it to each station. Attemting a single 60 meter rappel is highly discouraged. This page author barely made the stretch by clipping below to the anchor and coming off the ends of the rope 4 feet above!! There are three stations. Sad to say, thieves have taken the chains from most of the rappel stations, leaving one to place slings on bolts or leave sacrifice biners. The last rappel leaves you with a 4th class slab walk off and deposits you left of Captain Obvious's start.

Essential Gear

Pro to 2" - Nuts helpful
10 slings for knobs
(2) 60 meter ropes OR (1) 70 meter rope...A MUST! (Needed for the rappel)