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| North East Face   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Alaska, United States, North America Route Type: Mountaineering Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: D-
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| Page By: klettermaxl Created/Edited: Feb 20, 2006 / Feb 20, 2006 Object ID: 174124 Hits: 427 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewIn may 2004 I climbed the described line. I donīt know, if there have been accents to any time before. The route is not too long, so you donīt need a special day during your hike up Denali. If the weather is good take some time in the evening.
ApproachFrom the ski hill camp on the Kahiltna- glacier cross the glacier to west or southwest (depends of the exact place of the camp). Near the face are some crevasses, round them rightwards and go back left to reach the bergschrund ( I found it filled with snow). Decide for the line, before you are too close to the face!Route DescriptionThe route follows the ice and snow runnels left of the big central rock pillar. Maybe the easiest variant is traversing from left to right, but you can reach the runnels also direct, while passing a very short mixed section and some steeper ice steps. The following describes the direct variant:
After passing the avalanche- snow filled bergschrund at 45°, you have to climb a short snow field at the same slope, to reach a small ice gully, which makes it necessary to use rock in some places. Above you have to climb short steeper ice steps (65°). Than you reach the main runnel, which leads you up (passing some rocks, which are on the right) to the last snow slope. Here is the only place to enter the cornice line. You will hit the summit direct above. From there you have a great round view.
For descent is the east ridge a good choice. The ridge offers a natural visible line down. Be careful with the cornices. The first part is the steepest. I found bad snow conditions (deep snow covered with a hard layer) but on my ass, I came down without breaking in. You have to leave the ridge as fast as possible to the left over steeper ground. Otherwise you will get a harder way back to your tent, because there are more crevasses. Down on the glacier, round the crevasses leftwards to gain the flat glacier.
Essential GearI soloed up the face, so I have to say, essential is good clothing, crampons and two technical axes. If you will climb with a partner you should bring some ice screws (2-3) for the first part and maybe snow pickets to protect the snow or packed snow runnel pitches. Of course you need a rope and harnesses, without them, you will not use the screws.
On the way down, between motorcycle hill and ski hill, impressions that make it not easy to leave this range, Point farine is seen |
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