Right Hand Y Gully

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Geography

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Routes

Idwal Staircase-Variant

Right Hand Y Gully

Page Type: Route

Location: Wales, Europe

Route Type: Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Scottish Winter III

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: III

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Route Quality:
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- 1 Votes

Page By: BigLee

Created/Edited: Mar 30, 2006 / Apr 20, 2006

Object ID: 184652

Hits: 692

Page Score: 86.68% - 2 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

This is one of my favourite Welsh winter climbs. When it's in condition it's definately worth checking out.

Getting There

Climb into Cwm Cneifon

From the car park by the west shore of LLyn Ogwen on the A5 follow the trail that leads south to Llyn Idwal and follow its east bank. Climb into Cwm Cneifon (The Nameless Cwm) which is the left of the two Cwms to the south. Right Hand Y Gully is a distinctive gully that can be seen from a distance towards the top of the Cwm on the right (western) side.

Route Description

The route is mixed from the large part with plenty of torquing and hooking. There's also a great hand jam manveovre on the first pitch.

Pitches
1) Follow the narrow gully and climb a steep section. This is possibly the crux pitch.
2) Bear right and continue up a well defined gully with a thin layer in ice to a belay spot to the right before the second steep section.
3) The third pitch begins with a steep climb before becoming easier. A harder route is possible by bearing right initially on the pitch. This route I'd rate as a IV.

Essential Gear

Cwm Cneifon from Llyn Idwal

Technical axes
Crampons
Rope (preferrably double rope)
Hexes
Nuts
Pegs (I didn't need to use any however)
Slings
Quickdraws

Leave the ice screws as this is strictly a mixed route!