Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.52600°N / 12.03070°E |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.9 (YDS) |
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Grade:
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VI |
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Overview
Beautiful and varied climbing on mostly slabs and cracks define this route on the Pilastro Di Rozes of the Tofana di Rozes. For the 500 meter long route one needs 5 to 6 hours. It is slightly easier than the South Face Route, with which it joins near the top. The view into the depths takes one's breath away and the panorama onto Sopranis, Pelmo, Cinque Torri, etc., is one of a kind!Most of the 12 to 14 pitches are not harder than UIAA V. Only the 7th and 8th pitches are somewhat harder (VI- and VI). After the traverse, the climbing is very pleasurable in good rock. Unfortunately the last 3 pitches are almost just a walk.
The climb was first done by Constantini and Ghenina in 1946.
Getting There
From the Dibona Hut on a beautiful trail (#442) to the foot of the Pilastro wall. A slight rising traverse on a ledge to the left reaches the start. 1 hour form the hut.Route Description
The first 7 pitches run right of the arête. One then climbs left of the arête to the gully after a traverse that is not to be underestimated. From the gully, after climbing over a bulge, the route is mostly scrambling and meets the South Face route. The final summit gully may have snow.See also this Route Description The route sketch below is from that page.
The descent first ascends slightly in northerly direction and then follows a marked route to the exit of the regular route. From there a good trail leads easily to the Giussani Hut. A steep trail (#403) leads back to the Dibona Hut.
Gabriele Roth - Sep 14, 2011 10:41 am - Voted 10/10
add on - latest infofrom Planetmountain Landslide on the Tofana di Rozes Enrico Maioni, the Mountain Guide from Cortina, informs that a landslide on the Tofana di Rozes has changed the descent from the routes on the Pilastro, Primo Spigolo and Terzo Spigolo. A recent landslide on the Tofana di Rozes, the majestic peak in the Dolomites, has radically changed the descent path used by alpinists climbing routes on the right-hand side (east) of the spectacular South Face. On 7 September 2011 a continuous mass of rocks started falling onto the path which gives access to the narrow ledge used to descend to Rifugio Giussani and Rifugio Dibona. The ledge is well-known to alpinists who have climbed on the Rozes as, despite not being the only descent, it is far and away the most popular. The characteristic, narrow ledge can no longer be used and the new descent follows cairns up the gully to the left (west) of Punta Marietta. Used during the Great War, remains of the First World War can still be seen along this route.