The Pangborn, 5.10

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The Pangborn, 5.10

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Spring

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: Old Skool Crux's are two 5.9+ Slab moves

Grade: I

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Page By: The Chief

Created/Edited: Apr 9, 2006 / Apr 17, 2009

Object ID: 186994

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Page Score: 87.55% - 7 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Steve Ford brings up Sak.

Steve Ford nears the Crux.

This is the Alabama Hills CLASSIC! Located on the Loaf, it is the longest route in the "Hills" and affords the funnest and most diverse climbing of all the Alabama Hills routes. Originally rated at 5.10a by Mike Strassman, the latest general concensus is that the crux move between the 7th and 8th bolt, only entails a commiting 5.9+ "slabby" two move skip/bumbs to a solid jug system. Lots of fun and long!!! 155'! It requires two ropes to descend. I usually have the "Second", trail a 2nd line for the rap, then lower them to the base and I then rap down. Have Fun and by all means enjoy the awesome view from the top.

Getting There

Park at the Meatloaf campsite dead end which is located at the leftest most turn-off on Movie Rd. Head up past the Hoodgie Wall Wash and "Mon Cherie" 5.9 (by all means stop and run up this great 12 bolt, Raliegh Collins Classic route on the way), then up 25yds through the boulders. Go under and through the obvious "Cave" and pop out at the base of the Loaf Wall.

What a Joy!.

Route Description

Pangborn is the third from the right line. Do not confuse it with the corner, 5.8 Ranger Ron which starts in the obvious right trough. Go up past three bolts on easy 5.8+ jugs onto the ramp. Clip the 4th bolt with a 24" runner to alleviate any possible rope drag and surmount the bulge onto the main wall. Continue up past three more bolts and then you arrive at the crux. Commit yourself to a double slab skip, 5.9+ move, up a blank, yet very rough granite section. Trust your feet as there are no hand holds. After taking a deep breath, continue up past three more bolts to the top. Stop and look to your left and enjoy the incredible view. Remember, two ropes are required for the descent.
TOPO:

Andrew having Fun!

Essential Gear

Two 50or60m ropes, 12 draws, two spare biners, 1 cordlette and 1 24" sling for the 4th bolt.