Full Metal Jacket, C2+ 5.10, V (TA/FCA)

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Full Metal Jacket, C2+ 5.10, V (TA/FCA)

Full Metal Jacket, C2+ 5.10, V (TA/FCA)

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.59527°N / 118.7356°W

Route Type: Aid Climbing

Season: Spring

Time Required: One to two days

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: A2+ 5.10 V

Number of Pitches: 7

Grade: V

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Page By: The Chief

Created/Edited: Apr 25, 2006 / Aug 29, 2007

Object ID: 190384

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Table of Contents

Overview

Slick leading the thin face/lbing 5.10 on p-2.

Dave Hickey on P-2 on the First Ascent(Photo Courtesy of Rene Ardesch)

This great, fun and challenging route on the East Face of Moro Rock, was established back in September of 88' by Eddie Joe and Dave Hickey. It consists of 5 full on stiff pitches of free climbing and intricate clean cam hooking/riveting and overhanging thin blade/beak aid work. It is a great mixture of both and will most definitely give any party a day or two of worth while challenges. It doesn't see too many ascents and will most likely require some leaver gear i.e. heads and rivets. We chose to bivy at the top of P-4, in order to enjoy the atmosphere and scenary. Slick Watts and I did it in late June of 00' and believe that it was the fourth full ascent. Need to beware of both Poison Oak and Black Bears that are very prevelant on the sloping 1 hour gulley down hill approach.

Getting There

Slick Watts Jugging P-4

Drive up the standard southwest approach to Moro Rock on HWY 198 from Visalia through Three Rivers. Turn right at the top of the twisting road, at the Moro Rock Vista turnoff. Park at the Vista lot and descend the gully which is visible and accessed at the southeast end of the Parking Lot. Continue down the steep gully with East Face of Moro Rock on your right, approx. 45-60 minutes, to the halfway point where the obvious roofs, which are left of "Lady's on Top" and "Glow with the Flow" are located. FMJ begins at the bottom and just left of the big bulges/roof systems.

Route Description

The Topo.

Slick coming around the corner of the 7th and last Pitch.

Slick slaving me on the C-1 work of P-3.

P-1: There are two starts that initiate at a bush after a 4th class romp up a slab. a) goes left and up the C-1 slightly overhanging seam over a very loose block or b) goes right and up the sightly overhanging #3 & #4 Head seam. Both go for 70' with a total legnth of P-1 @120'.

P-2: This is the Classic fine face and left thin facing corner that requires thin nuts, fine Liebacking and Face techniques. The crux 5.10 moves are at the botom as the ramp tapers off as you ascend. The pitch finishs at a single(spinner) bolt and plenty of natural pro. If you are hauling, recommend that you set up an anchor below the belay ledge as to allow the haul line a freer run. 165'.

P-3: This is the fun, thin but loose and dirty C-1 left facing and overhanging corner that turns right onto a slightly overhanging face with five nice rivets. 165'.

P-4: Starts off with very thin A2+ bladed overhanging seam onto an awkward Beak Hole which then leads to more overhanging rivets and two loose bolts. Surmount the bulge onto six more vertical rivets (#4 is pounded in but can be manipulated with a very thin #1 Stopper as a Hangar) up to the small ledge and anchor. This is a great place to bivy as there are three solid bolts and a fabulous view. 60'.

P-5: The Rivet pitch which consists of 13 solid rivets. First section of eight rivets leads you to a large horn that can be tied off then another rivet. From here, surmount the very awkward bulge onto some A2+ #2 & #3 Heads to four more rivets, than a 5.9 slab shuffle to a single bolt and natural small pro anchor. 120'.

To the Top: There are two options. You can either continue straight up on unprotected 5.8 face for 60' to two solid bolts and then 4th class for 200' which then joins the top 5.4 section of the East Face (recommended if hauling). Or, go right 140' on the 5.9 ramp to a bolt/pro belay. Then continue straight up 5.4 slabs to the railing protected tourist ledge.

Note: The haul on P-1 & P-2 can be arduous at the least.

Essential Gear

Slick starting off on P-5.

Slick enjoying a smooth Cigar on a warm June eve Bivy at the start of P-5.

1-60m(Dynamic)
1-60m(Static)
2-Beaks
4-KB's(2short/thin & 2long/thin)
2-LA's(#1)
2ea-#2-5 Wired Nuts
2ea-#1-4 Wired Hex's
2ea-#4-12 Offsets
2ea-1/4"-1" TCU's
2ea-1"-4" FCU's
13ea-RivetHgrs(thin & thick or can use stoppers in a clinch)
4ea-#2-4 Spare Heads
5ea-3/8"x1" Spare Rivets
Small Bolt Kit(for possible maint/replacement i.e. old bolts/rivets)
10ea-Draws
30ea-Spare Biners
10ea-24" Slings
Some nice Cigar's to be enjoyed if you chose to Bivy.

External Links

Here is a trip report by Rex Piper on his 3rd ascent of "FMJ": http://www.bigwall.com/fmjtr.html