This route is in the North cirque on the East side of the peak. It follows the gully on the other side of the notch from Far Reaching. This climb comes in by May and is climbable through most summers, as long as the snow pack is adequate. After Spring conditions end, the last pitch harbors a substantial amount of bare, loose rock.

Getting There

Same as for Far Reaching Return. This will be the crux for most people. Again, a GPS unit with preprogrammed waypoints is extemely helpful

Route Description

This is a fun, easy route that goes quickly. Climb steep snow and alpine ice for a couple of pitches up the gully that lies just below the notch on the North side of the rib dividing the cirques. The crux comes at the end of this section. A short chimney with 3-4 steep mixed moves poses the main difficulty. Afterwards, two more pitches of easy mixed climbing and alpine ice will get you to the notch. Climb out of the notch, traversing left, and descend as for Far Reaching Return.

Essential Gear

Single rope. Small assortment of rock gear. 3-4 ice screws if you are so inclined; the route can be adequately protected with rock gear alone.

External Links

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