OverviewThis climb lies in the South cirque on the east side of the peak. It tops out closest to the summit of all the routes in the cirque so far, and is a very big day. It is in reliably in Spring, with the standard caveat for alpine climbs: conditions may vary. In the photo, it is the first gully to the left of the giant couloir in the back of the cirque.
Getting ThereSame as for Far Reaching Return.
Route Description A large, steep snowfield leads up to the first pitch, a short step with thin ice and/or thin slabs. This pitch gets direct sun in the morning. If you like ice climbing, get an early start. The next two pitches are steep snow and alpine ice. At the end of this section, the main gully goes left while a smaller side-gully goes straight up. Stay left and climb some easy ice and mixed. A couple of harder mixed pitches lead to the exit situation. You have three choices: an ugly chimney directly in front of you, an ugly chimney up to your right and around the corner, and an ugly chimney up and straight to your right. May I recommend the ugly chimney up and straight right. To descend, walk around south and east on the rim of the cirque. When you are even with the lake at the end of the approach route, descend the ridge to that lake.
Essential GearRock gear with pieces up to 4 inches, with emphasis on small chocks and cams, LA and KB pitons, two medium and two stubby ice screws. A single rope will do.
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