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Northeast Face
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Northeast Face 

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: One to two days

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 12

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
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Page By: CascadeClimber

Created/Edited: May 14, 2006 / May 14, 2006

Object ID: 193782

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Overview

This route will never be a classic, but it was a great adventure on an unclimbed face and was included in the American Alpine Journal in 2003. It includes glacier travel, moderate rock to 5.6, and an AI2+ pitch in a hidden firn couloir.

Getting There

Standard approach Cache Col to Kool Aid Lake.

Route Description

From Kool Aid Lake cross the Red Ledge then descend down to the foot of the Formidable glacier, crossing under an ice fall. Ascend the Formidable glacier to the NE Face.

Gain the rock climber's right of the fall-line from the summit. Climb eleven pitches, including an AI2+ pitch in a firn couloir (rock to 5.6) to reach the summit ridge just west of the summit.

Descend via standard SE route, Main Divide, and Formidable-Spider Col.

See external link for more information.

Essential Gear

Crampons, rope, ice axe, medium rock rack, helmet.

External Links

http://cascadeclimber.com/mt__formidable.htm


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