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Captain Fist
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Captain Fist 

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: sisyphus

Created/Edited: May 23, 2006 / May 23, 2006

Object ID: 195772

Hits: 574 

Page Score: 86.18% - 1 Votes 

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Overview

Captain Fist ascends the left side of the "tilted tower" on Arch Rock. It's a nice one-pitch rock route.

Getting There

Arch Rock (see main page) is 4.0 miles from the kiosk at the entrance to the canyon. Parking is scarce. There is a great spot suitable for one or two cars at the base of the crag. When that is full, park 1/4 mile upriver at a campground.

Route Description

Approach



Hike from the road on use trails straight up to the rock wall. This may involve some scrambling and/or bushwhacking. There are a million trails here, so just pick one and keep going. When you arrive at the crag, Captain Fist is to the right of Hollow Flake, and begins under a big roof.

The Climb



One pitch. See signature photo. You'll find out why this route is called Captain Fist on your first move. To protect your first 20 feet of climbing, you'll need to put your largest cam straight up into the crack in the roof above you. This is tough if you're not about 6'2" or bigger. You can always run it out around the roof if you can't reach. Once above and to the left of the roof, follow crack systems to a two bolt anchor. Rappel off or continue above on other routes.

Essential Gear

A big cam. Several medium stoppers, cams, and hexes.

External Links

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Images




"You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place ? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know."   --Rene Dumal   

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